[pianotech] Repeat of Question about damping problems with Steinway L

Jon Page jonpage at comcast.net
Tue Dec 30 05:52:06 PST 2008


>As for the tray pin location...

When relocating the pivot in-line with the flange centers getting the new pivot
hole located in the support block is not difficult.

To maintain the forward location of the top flange there is a simple procedure.

With the tray and support blocks on the bench, measure from the back of the
support block to the old top flange center. (The tray should be parallel to the
bench or perpendicular if you place the backs of the support blocks 
on the bench).

Measure the distance between the new top flange and lever flange centers.
Subtract this from the previous measurement and that is the distance from
the back of the support block to drill your new hole. Ascertain first 
if the top
flange is situated well and the forwards portion of the lever is free.

To ascertain the height, it is equally as simple. This can be applied 
to original
back action modification to improve motion. Many times the lever is 
at too great
of a downwards angle to the key and scrubs a trough in the end felt; meaning
that the pivot center is too high.  There is the least sliding motion 
(friction)
when the lever is parallel to the keybed. There is no reason to have the
key elevate the lever beyond parallel because that introduces sliding
friction and crushes the back edge of the felt, counter productive.
Lifting to parallel is ideal.

On a Steinway, the key end felt lifts to ~1 3/4".
The distance from the bottom of the lever to the center is 3/8".
So for the lever to be lifted to that height and remain parallel to the bed,
the pivot height should be 2 1/8".

An easy way to setup the whole system on the bench is to measure
from the belly rail to the front of the keybed where the front of the
keyframe ends. Place masking tape at that distance on the bench
and locate the action and back action therein. You can worry about
a Magic Line but I don't think that it matters as long as there is proper
lift motion as mentioned above, especially way out at the end of the ke
and beyond.

I usually keep the same support blocks and screw hole alignment.
The new pivot hole will be forwards of the old hole, if it is too close to the
front edge, I'll shim the rear. If the new hole is too close to the old hole
then I'll cut a 1/4" plug from the lower, rear corner of the support block
and plug the old hole., can't get a better plug than that.
-- 

Regards,

Jon Page
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