Action Rail Screws

[Michael Magness]

On Sat, Feb 23, 2008 at 11:56 AM, William R. Monroe <pianotech at a440piano.net>
wrote:

> Thanks to all for the responses.  Interesting learning for me.
>
> As re: Terry's solution, I use veneer and titebond, screw it in and let it
> be.  Solved.  Each their own.
>
> William R. Monroe
>
>
>
> > Take two splinters of veneer and a shot of thin CA, and you'll be better
> > in the morning.   ;-)
> >
> > Terry Farrell
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> You should always put the SAME screw back into the SAME hole in an
> action
> >> frame, e.g.
> > SNIP
> >> Or am I all stripped out?
> >> William R. Monroe
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
As has been covered by others this is certainly true of certain actions and
not of others.

Now when it comes to case screws I am of the belief that it is always true,
but then this is how I was taught. Keyslip screws on many old uprihts and
even old consoles and spinets were frequently "custom bent" to adjust the
keyslip away from the keys as the piano aged. I am always careful to lay
them out in order, place them in the keyslip in order while I'm working so
that they go back in proper placement when I'm done. This is also true of
other screws that must be removed for access, some have been replaced with a
larger one in the dim past and if not left in the proper hole can be
confused for being to tight/stripped out. I just find it easier to keep the
screws in place on the items I remove whenever possible, music desks,
fallboards, cheekblocks et al. It makes for a faster easier re-assembly and
less fumbling around looking for that screw that got kicked undr the sofa!
<grin>

Mike

-- 
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of SMART?
Michael Magness
Magness Piano Service
608-786-4404
www.IFixPianos.com
email mike at ifixpianos.com
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