Alan The "mold" is verdigris, also referred to as green gunk. It is easier and cheaper to ream and repin, and it will solve the problem for a while.?But it isn't a permanent solution. The?problem is the bushing cloth, which?was impregnated with paraffin wax. The wax reacts to the?nickel on the centerpin and produces the green gunk. ?So although you can remove the centerpin, and ream out the green gunk, the wool still has the wax. So the problem will come back, eventually. But since it takes about 25 - 40 years for the chemical reaction to have any kind of effect, you, and your customer,?won't be around to worry about it. Besides, by then the piano will probably have other problems. Willem (Wim) Blees, RPT Piano Tuner/Technician Honolulu, HI Author of The Business of Piano Tuning available from Potter Press www.pianotuning.com -----Original Message----- From: Alan Barnard <pianotuner at embarqmail.com> To: pianotech at ptg.org Sent: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 12:15 pm Subject: Rebush (or elect someone else?) Got a 1916 Steinway upright that's definitely an oldie but moldy -- all flanges practically seized up with mold in the bushings. Rather than rebushing everything or replacing the flanges (super expensive!), has anyone had success just reaming and repinning? BTW previous tech(s) had?put large lead weights near the back of all the keysticks (2-ouncers, I'd guess) AND screwed jiffy leads to most of the stickers! Must have played like a Mack truck .... with?its power steering broken ......?and both front tires flat .... on a sand dune! Alan Barnard Salem, MO ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20080105/af2d14f0/attachment.html
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC