I think that's fine. I just don't want the pin to extend down below the bottom of the original pin. If you look down inside the hole you can see a small shelf where the original pin stopped. Forcing a longer pin (and larger) pin into that shelf can create a situation where the pin is extremely tight at the very bottom of the hole and that can make for poor rendering. Sorting the pins as you mention I think is a good idea. David Love davidlovepianos at comcast.net www.davidlovepianos.com -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Jon Page Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 8:17 AM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Original pin block I was referring to your suggestion (and Jon Page's) about increasing length of the pin to 2 1/2". The original Steinway pins I'm extracting are 2 3/8". The "typo" in the original text is probably an HTML conversion problem. I still believe you should stay with the original length when increasing the diameter for the reasons stated. People can, however, do whatever they want. I install a 2 1/2" pin on single string notes , as I said and 2 3/8" on the rest. Reason being the tension and width of the coil. The larger diameter single string core wire can leave a lesser amount of pin in the block if you keep the bottom of the coil off the plate consistent with the treble. In general, the single strings' pins become loose before the other pins (YMMV), so this extra length gives them the edge they need. I do this on new blocks too. Mic'ing the pins helps for even torque too, with the narrower diameters in the treble. There can be four or five different sizes of pins within a set; that's .001" or .002" either side of the spec diameter. I discard the out-of-round ones. -- Regards, Jon Page -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20080617/784131ea/attachment.html
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