The archives aren't working right now, but I'll second the Randy Potter course suggestion, particularly his week-long seminar in Montana in January... I know that sound bad (MT/Jan), but it's really worthwhile as long as you've started his course and have attempted some of the lessons. But to somewhat more directly answer your question, you never replace an existing pin. Its tapered/sharpened point has been snipped off, most always leaving a snag that will for sure catch on the bushing and rip it out. Pins are CHEAP, and lots easier to put in a new one, too. If the pins are green (verdigris) <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Verdigris> you'll need to replace flanges, too, not just pins and bushings. Re-bushing isn't typically done with re-pinning... I'll defer to others who are far more expert than I to define more accurately when you would re-bush. Paul Bruesch Stillwater, MN On Wed, Nov 19, 2008 at 4:23 PM, David Ilvedson <ilvey at sbcglobal.net> wrote: > You need to go www.ptg.org , find "search the archives" and read. I > would suggest the Randy Potter course. > > David Ilvedson, RPT > Pacifica, CA 94044 > ------------------------------ > Original message > From: <88man at netscape.com> > To: > Received: 11/19/2008 9:53:29 AM > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Sluggish action on Wurlitzer > > Does repinning mean cleaning the existing pins and replacing, or > replacing the pins...and is rebushing a part of repinning?... > > thanks, > > Lance Chauvin > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech_ptg.org/attachments/20081119/63bd48f8/attachment.html>
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