waves

[Fenton Murray]

http://www.surfermag.com/av/barack-obama-bodysurfs-hawaii/
Check this link, Obama body surfs!! Found it looking for Bill Wise info.
Fenton
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Brekne" <ricb at pianostemmer.no>
To: <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 12:31 AM
Subject: waves


> That I have Fenton. Tho looks like after nearly half my life in Bergen... 
> I've found my home. Felt kinda right from the get go way back in 81. Its 
> not quite as exotic now as it was then... but then you do get used to 
> things.  Still, when folks here ask me where in the US I am from... I have 
> a hard time answering.  Born in Loup City, Nebraska...then before I was 2 
> we were in Lincoln. At 5 we were in Buffalo N.Y. At 11 I were in Montana, 
> then my senior year in Palo Alto... moved around a lot after that on my 
> own. I've been in all but two states for at least a few days.  Still... I 
> end up telling them... "Eg er fra Bergen eg !"  Lots of cool memories from 
> California and Montana tho... and the night sky in New Mexico.... well 
> thats another story.
>
> Cool you get into surfing... I tried once in Hawaii... got fooled into 
> renting this little bitty expert board with 2 foot swells... struggled for 
> 6 hours and never got up.. sigh... you cant do everything in this world, 
> but its nice to try.... or dream.  Body surfing has its own pleasures tho. 
> The feel of the wave bubbling you forward... what a high !
>
> Cheers, and be safe
> Ric
>
>    You've been around, Ric.
>    Fenton
>
>
>     >/ A wave thread!? ...... Santa Cruz is home break for me for most of
>    />/ my 54 years.....
>    />/ Fenton
>    />/
>    />/
>    />/ Dont know much about board surfing... but just left of the
>    Boardwalk at
>    />/ Santa Cruz is one of the best body surfing spots I've ever run
>    into.
>    />/ Theres another great spot in Quiberon just out on the French
>    coast near
>    />/ Carnak. Senior at Paly High... long time ago... different life.
>    />/
>    />/ Cheers
>    />/ RicB
>    /
>
>
>