[pianotech] Refinishing ebony sharps - methods used?

[Mike Spalding]

Chuck,

I believe that for real ebony, for both looks and feel, the best finish 
is no finish.  There's nothing worse looking/feeling on the tops of the 
black keys than a layer of black paint that's partially chipped away.  
Strip with Savogran Original semi-paste Strypeeze, wash/neutralize with 
Soilax, let dry, rub with 4/0 steel wool.  Bare softwood keystick below 
the ebony can be painted flat black with Higgins Calligraphy waterproof 
black ink.

If the sharps are generic white hardwood, then between drying and 
rubbing, mix 3 parts lacquer thinner, 1 part lacquer, several drops of 
Homestead TransTint black dye to taste, and rub into the wood with a 
cloth pad, Scotchbrite pad, or 4/0 steel wool.  Let dry, rub with 4/0 
steel wool. 

Mike

Chuck Behm wrote:
> Hi everyone - I've been asked to write an article for the Journal
> describing procedures for refinishing sharps, and I would like some
> input. The segment will follow a 3 part series on putting on molded
> keytops which will run this next spring, which I do all the time and I
> am very comfortable writing about.
>
> With my techniques for refinishing sharps, however, I'm sure there are
> other methods which work as well or better than what I do. I generally
> use Sharp Black, sold by Schaff, after stripping off the old finish,
> or I spray with a Krylon brand satin paint. Or, in the case of nice
> looking ebony, I'll use a polish on the wood without a black finish to
> hide the grain.
>
> There were several alternative methods to refinish sharps which ran
> back in December 2008  (check out the archives for that month under
> "Refinishing Ebony Sharps") which I intend to try out. If anyone
> recalls another related thread, I would love to read it over.
>
> If anyone has methods that work well in addition to these techniques,
> would you please consider posting them to the list?  I have a half
> dozen old sets of keys in the shop, and what I would like to do is try
> each technique described on an octave worth of sharps to compare the
> results. It would be helpful if you mention specific product names
> used in your process, so that I can purchase and try those exact
> products. If I do try your method, I will credit your technique in the
> Journal article if so desired (just mention in your post if I may use
> your name in the article).
>
> One thing interesting about this website is that it shows time and
> time again that for many problems there are more than one solution.
> That this is a community of individuals who are there when needed is
> such a positive thing.
>
> Thanks in advance for your help with this topic. I have a March
> deadline on writing this up, so the sooner I have some methods to try
> out, the better. Chuck Behm
>
>