[pianotech] Rebuilding a early 1920's Knabe Piano

Rob Goodale rrg at unlv.nevada.edu
Tue Jan 13 11:40:11 PST 2009


A couple of thoughts regarding refinishing-

First, when all else fails and it looks like economics are going to rule the 
day the easiest way out is to go with black lacquer.  Forget the tedious 
task of matching and coloring veneer, regluing loose veneer, and all the 
other time consuming work that natural finishes involve.  Going black means 
stripping, filling the gouges and voids FAST, sanding, applying sealer, a 
couple good coats of black lacquer with light sanding between coats, and 
then a final rub out.  Going with a satin sheen is easiest because the 
finest of imperfections don't reflect the light.  It's the easiest and 
fastest way out of an otherwise very involved process.  It may not please 
everyone but if you aren't making any money then what's the point?

I really don't do much finish work, truth be known I think it's a big mess 
and I try to avoid it whenever I can, but a while back I switched to 
Pre-catalyzed lacquer, (Mohawk).  This turned out to be a fabulous choice. 
This type of lacquer is much harder then the typical variety which seems to 
be getting less durable and reliable every year.  It possesses all the 
normal application characteristics of lacquer but behaves more like 
polyurethane in terms of durability and hardness.  You are also much less 
likely to go through the edges when rubbing.  I recommend thinning just a 
little to extend the workability time during spraying, it dries faster then 
regular lacquer.  This is a good thing though, by the end of the day you can 
already be rubbing it out for the next coat.  I wish I had tried this stuff 
years ago.  It's also available in several different sheens so if you start 
out with the satin there will be a lot less rubbing involved.  When you are 
finished polish all the brass hardware and coat it with nikolas lacquer and 
the case will look like a million bucks.

Rob Goodale, RPT
Las Vegas, NV 





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