HI Joe: Thanks for your observations. I looked at the Lee Valley Chisel plane, but was not interested for several reasons. First, not all of the mass will be under your hand. Secondly, the front portion of the plane is not removable as it is on many rabbet planes, which converts them to a chisel plane. Thirdly, if I can get a rabbet plane (obviously I can, from my list) that would be a better choice. One of the attractions of a rabbet plane is its convertibility to the chisel plane, meaning that you can purchase two tools for the price of one. Whether that chisel plane is as good as the other candidates on this list remains an open question. I value your comments on the mass of the tool, that is definitely a consideration for me, and one in favor of the Lee Valley Bronze chisel plane, and the #90 Stanley Bullnose Rabbet Plane at 1 Lb 4 oz. I have found that a beefier chisel is superior for bridge notching, no matter what the level of sharpness. Particularly, with the rising and falling grain we encounter on bridge cap maple. The sharpening is an absolute necessity agreed, but a non-issue. It’s a given for me. I have a Makita motorized sharpening system with 1000 grit waterstone to rough things in, a number of Japanese water stones up to 8000 grit, and a flattening plate. I flatten my backs and sharpen both sides of the blade. I can admire my handsome visage in the mirror finish when I am done. My Japanese chisels with laminated blades will leave a burnished surface after notching. I would not use the miniature chisel plane as a primary tool. But it might be a useful tool for some things like beveling a bass bridge and general use in the shop. I’ve used a Japanese miniature plane to plane down shims (although I still hate shimming). As for the curved plane, I do know some other rebuilders who use such a tool for bearing. Your concern about being able to see the bottom when finally planing down the bridge is met by rubbing chalk or graphite into the depression as you do, and planing down until the color just goes away. At that stage, I would probably be using a sharp scraper. I think you would actually be able to see the thread contacting the surface better, since the opening is broader. Moving the thread side to side a little bit will find the bottom. Much thanks again for your thoughts. Will From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Joe DeFazio Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 12:24 AM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Chisel Planes and Tool Junkies Hey Will, That's a slow-pitch league question; just get two of each! If finances don't permit that, you'll have to settle for one of each, I guess.... Seriously, looks like you have some good candidates. Except for the curved palm plane, that is. I think that the traditional saw kerf method would be much more precise, if I properly understand your intended curved plane use in setting bearing. When you cut saw kerfs and then plane down to them, you can see the kerf line very clearly as you approach it, and stop just as it is on the verge of disappearing (especially if you blacken it with a mechanical pencil lead or plate flange fitting chalk or something once you are fairly close) . With a broadly curved planed rebate, I think it would be very hard to locate the exact center/bottom as you planed down the rest of the cap. It might also be difficult to ensure that your thread is traveling through the exact center of your planed rebate, and that the thread travels in exactly the same path each time you stretch it through to assess your progress in reaching the proper bearing. Maybe I'm missing something or misunderstanding you, though. I have not had much success with wooden miniature planes (though I haven't tried a Lee valley one). It seems to me that the mass of the body contributes to a smooth cut and reduces chatter. Personally, I'd go for heavy. With wooden miniature planes, small size and the comparatively light weight of wood are two strikes, and perhaps my planing technique supplies the final swing-and-a-miss. However, it is certainly possible (or even likely) that others who possess better planing technique and more experience have more success with them. I do believe that excellent sharpening is an absolute imperative, perhaps even more so with smaller and lighter planes. One other item you may want to think about is the Lee Valley Chisel plane (you supply the chisel; http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2 <http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32661&cat=1,230,41182,41192)> &p=32661&cat=1,230,41182,41192), which I don't have but have been intrigued by for some time. You can cut to within about 1" of an obstruction like a rim. I think, but am not sure, that someone else sells a body into which you affix your own chisel, except without the bullnose front protrusion (which would let you plane even closer). I can't dig up the link, unfortunately, if it indeed exists. Here's an alternate line of thought, which may or may not interest you: I'm all for spending whatever it takes to get a quality tool. However, since a chisel plane is such a simple device, this is one of very few areas in which you could probably get away with buying a cheap one and investing some time in tuning it (even HF sells some). Unless you go with Lie-Nielsen or Lee Valley, you'll have to spend some plane-tuning time anyway. Or, you could even make your own. Here's a video: http://www.mattswoodshop.libsyn.com/index.php?post_id=383482. I should mention that the guy in the video has horribly unsafe table saw habits, so please don't emulate! Fine Woodworking has the plans on their website if you happen to be interested. Garage sales can yield some wondrous treasures, as well. Whichever one(s) you get, please let the list how it (they) are working out for you. A similar item is on my GAS (gear acquisition syndrome) list as well. Joe DeFazio Pittsburgh From: "William Truitt" <surfdog at metrocast.net> Date: July 4, 2009 5:54:16 PM EDT To: <pianotech at ptg.org> Subject: [pianotech] Chisel Planes and Tool Junkies Reply-To: pianotech at ptg.org To the list: Since I started installing soundboards in my shop, I have been slowing upgrading and adding to my tools. I am finding that to be a bottomless pit to drop my sheckels into. There’s always the Next Great Tool. Indeed, it is the perfect occupation for the incorrigible tool junkie. Since I started using Jude Reveley as a supplier, I have visited his shop with some regularity, always experiencing some measure of Tool Lust when I am there. Jude’s a Tool Junkie, one of the worst I’ve seen. He’s in denial, though - he doesn’t think he has a problem, and won’t go into rehab. I don’t know if it’s affecting his family income, but the other day I saw a couple of shivering waifs who look a lot like him selling matches on the street . J (Your turn, Jude!) Anyway, I am now looking to purchase a chisel plane or a tool that will accomplish the same sort of tasks. Since I set bearing on the bridges with the board glued in, this means that I have to work around the closeness of the rim in the low bass and high treble. I know that piano makers use chisel planes for such tasks, so I am researching them with the intent of purchasing something to use on my present project. Lie-Nielsen bronze 6 ½” chisel plane for $140.00 (part no. 07024) http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=07O24 <http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=07O24&FamilyID=555> &FamilyID=555 $140.00 Kunz Bullnose plane #75 #581-0075 http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/default.php/cPath/2_568 $34.95 Stop Rabbet (Chisel) Plane by E.C. Emmerich #535-5858 http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/product_info.php/products_id/1719 $54.95 Other tools to look at are a miniature chisel plane (07P15.05) , at http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1 <http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=50232&cat=1,41182> &p=50232&cat=1,41182 $19.50 Curved palm plane, at http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1 <http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=57205&cat=1,41182> &p=57205&cat=1,41182 $52.50 Veritas Bullnose plane, at http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1 <http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=49709&cat=1,41182,48945> &p=49709&cat=1,41182,48945 $175.00 No. 90 Bullnose Rabbet Plane by Stanley UK 265-112090 http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/product_info.php/cPath/2_568/products_i d/3319 $89.95 <image002.png> These are some the tools I am considering. The Lie-Nielsen and Veritas tools are Cadillac tools. I am particularly attracted to the E. C. Emmerich stop rabbet plane because it looks like it would fit very nicely into your hand, has a good blade (61 on the Rockwell C scale), and is priced decently at $54.95 I included the curved palm plane on the list because it might be a good tool to scoop the bridge out to set bearing. If anyone on the list has experience with any of these tools, I’d love to hear it. Or if you have something that does the task better, I’d love to hear about it too. Will Truitt _______________________________________________ pianotech mailing list pianotech at ptg.org http://ptg.org/mailman/listinfo/pianotech -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20090705/0b7b445c/attachment-0001.htm>
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