Fantastic info! I appreciate it very much! You going to the convention? From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Ryan Sowers Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2009 1:43 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: [pianotech] key leveling Here is some info that I posted on Pianoworld technician forum a little while back: About 10 years ago I bought Carl Meyers Key-leveling device which is now sold through Joe Goss at Mother Goose tools. It looks like this: <http://www.mothergoosetools.com/other_tools/images_other_tools/key_level_wh t.jpg> It does not have a crown. I always level my keyboards without any crown. In the instructions that come with the key leveling device it is recommended to drill a hole under the end keys and temporarily install a capstan screw so you can finely adjust the position of the straight edge. I got tired of doing that, so years ago I came up with this little device which is a combination of a similar tool recommended by Bill Spurlock but with a capstan instead of a regular screw. We gave a bunch of these away at a Pacific NW conference quite a few year ago: <http://www.pianova.net/media2/keylevelsupport.jpg> This gives firm support and allows very fine adjustment of the straight edge. I don't use it for sharps because I prefer the Jarras gauge. Another technique I discovered that has become invaluable for fine leveling of keys is to mark the balance rail punchings with a dot or small line at the 6 O'clock position this will keep you from rotating them while taking them in and out, or when vacuuming. I have found this to be a real time saver, especially on old pianos where the felt is compressed on one side more than the other. Once you mark them you will be surprised out how easy it is to rotate them from the original position. If you think you don't rotate them during leveling - I urge you to try this, I guarantee you will be surprised at how much they move. Another important technique for stability is to make sure the punchings are settled. I usually just whack on the backs of the keys with my hand. I have found over the years that I can only get so accurate with a full straight edge. After 2 passes with the keyboard length tool, I go to a 2 octave length tool. I always finish off with careful use of my fingers. I'm always amazed at how my fingers will catch things that my eyes couldn't. Also I have found that you can't over-emphasize the importance of proper squaring of the keys. Firm keybushings are important for accurate work. I like using this little tool that was yet another Bill Spurlock idea. It fits in a combination handle and has a dimple on the end so it doesn't slip off the balance rail pin. It also doubles as a coil winder for putting for pre-coiling piano wire when doing string repairs. <http://www.pianova.net/media2/keysquaringtool.JPG> I made it with a piece of 1/4" brass round. It's about 2" long. I drilled a dimple in one end, and then chucked it in the drill press and used a file to taper one end. I used a dremmel tool and cut-off wheel to make the combination tool end. I then drilled a small hole to accept music wire for pre-coiling. Again, I can't get as accurate a result as I like with just a straight edge. My fingers are very good at feeling if one side of the key feel a little higher than the other relative to its neighbors. Accurate squaring can be hard to do if the keys aren't fairly level however. So I usually follow this protocol: set up long straight edge, square keys, space keys, and then 2 leveling passes. Switch to shorter straight edge and make another pass. At this point, I will continue moving through the regulation of the blow distance and capstans. this will often have an effect on the key level. I then set up long straight edge again and recheck squaring and spacing. Check leveling once again with long straight edge. Check again with short straight edge. The last pass is done all with my fingers which is the ultimate judge. It is not unusual for me to make some minor adjustments here and there with the thinnest paper punchings during the rest of the regulation. Another little tip: I don't remove thinnest punchings to bring a key down a slight amount. I prefer to shave a tiny bit of wood off the bottom of the key. I use a razor blade and give the key a few strokes on the bottom. I find this faster, and more stable then messing with the punchings at this point. One of the places I got this idea from was watching a video of key leveling in the Yamaha factory. They actually had a belt sander by the piano and the tech would stick the key on the sander for a moment to lower the key. Trying to get a perfect key level at the beginning of a regulation is a waste of time! I only shoot for 75-85 percent accuracy the first time through the regulation. Just like a pitch raise, being overly fussy at the beginning is futile. Wait until the very end to do your finest tweaking with the tissue thin punchings, and always be willing to keep tweaking the squaring based on look and feel. _________________________ Ryan Sowers, RPT Pianova Piano Service Olympia, Washington www.pianova.net <http://www.pianova.net/> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20090711/7e6968bd/attachment.htm>
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