> Gene, > > Not sure about the pivot block idea, but Delrin or some other dense > plastic would be workable, and a bearing could be fitted to it pretty > easily. **** Thanks > > But my question is, why do you want to move the pivot point? I'm not > clear by what you are meaning by the "same plane as the lift lever center > pin." If you are referring to the damper lever center pins axis being > different than the tray pivot axis, then there are good reasons to keep > these two separated. **** Yes - these two axis when brought together make for a much smoother functioning back action. Have done 5 now and like the results very much. As part of the mod I will also remove leaf springs and replace with coil and place it near the pitman - pitman also gets modified - replaced with threaded rod - no rubbing on the key bed or scrubbing on the tray. Learned it from Brett Dearing and Dale Fox. The only down side that I observed is that the coil return spring - I get it from Steinway - is not always strong enough. Gene > Don Mannino > > > ---- Gene Nelson <nelsong at intune88.com> wrote: >> Hello all, >> Just wondering if anyone has ever built damper tray support blocks with >> anything other than wood? >> Possibly something with a small bearing in it? >> >> Every back action job so far gets modified so that the tray pivots on the >> same plane as the lift lever center pin. >> The Renner kit requires the addition of something more than is supplied >> in the kit to make this happen. >> In this case in the treble I do not have the space and may need to >> relieve some material from the treble dam. >> >> The attached photo of the old tray kind of tells the story (the old leaf >> spring is history) - I need about an additional 8mm to make the new >> assembly work. So I thought possibly a metal L bracket with bearing or >> end rod with swivel bearing or ??? >> >> Thanks for any ideas. >> Gene >
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