Yes, the thin CA will penetrate the wood and not leave enough in the joint. This is why it is important to use accelerator on wood to wood joints. The accelerator will set up the glue before it all absorbs. I like to spray the accelerator and let it sit for a few seconds so the glue doesn't set up instantly. I want a little absorption into the wood. Like many other glues once you've used it often enough you get a feel for how to use it in a way that works for you. I've tracked these repairs now for more than 15 years and feel really good about the success rate. It works especially well on the two piece jacks that come loose at the glue joints. I routinely add a drop of CA to those joints on every action of that style that comes across my bench, even if they are not yet exhibiting signs of loosening. For a little extra reinforcement on a wood break you can put a thin piece of paper on either side of the break. Soak the paper with CA. Dean Dean May cell 812.239.3359 PianoRebuilders.com 812.235.5272 Terre Haute IN 47802 -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of pmc033 at earthlink.net Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 10:17 AM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Old Kranich and Bach Grand Years ago, I used CA glue to attempt to repair some S&S jacks that had become loose. It worked, or at least it did for a while until I visited the piano a few months ago. Many of the jacks were failing. With this experience, I would not recommend using CA glue on wood joints. It penetrates the wood, making it doubtful that subsequently using wood glue would create a reliable bond. The glue that Coleman sells, which is a combination epoxy/CA, might work, but in any case I would disassemble the parts, apply the glue, and reassemble them. Dripping thin CA glue might fill the gap, but a good bond with thin CA glue never worked well for me. YMMV, Paul McCloud San Diego > [Original Message] > From: Dean May <deanmay at pianorebuilders.com> > To: <pianotech at ptg.org> > Date: 07/25/2009 6:15:03 PM > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Old Kranich and Bach Grand > > Spray first with accelerator, wait a minute, then a tiny drop of thin CA on > all the joints. Problem solved. > > Dean > > Dean May cell 812.239.3359 > > PianoRebuilders.com 812.235.5272 > > Terre Haute IN 47802 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf > Of Clark A. Sprague > Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2009 8:35 PM > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Subject: [pianotech] Old Kranich and Bach Grand > > > Hi, all! It sure was nice to see a lot of you at Grand Rapids, and to put > faces with names. What a great resource this list is. > That said, I went to an old Kranich and Bach grand today, that had the > board shimmed, new pinblock, new hammers with shanks and flanges. But, > alas, not new whippens. The old things are letting go glue joints, notably > the jack tenders. Whoever did the job meticulously replaced all those > notorious little spring cords, but now glue joints are failing. > Having talked about new whippens with the customer, nothing in the > Renner kit works, or the Pianotek catalog, or the new WNG kit so graciously > given out in GR. It seems that the K&B whip is shorter in the distance from > the flange center to the jack center. > Anybody ever modify whips to accomplish the task? Or what? Besides > the obvious answer of a match and some flammable liquid! Customer seems to > want to spend the money. > > Clark A. Sprague, RPT > csprague4 at woh.rr.com > > >
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