[pianotech] Wurlitzer Console

[pmc033 at earthlink.net]

About the broken screw thing...  When one of these long screws breaks off,
you can use a jack spring seat cleanout tool to help remove it.  Chuck it
in your drill and put it in reverse.  It will grab the buried end of the
screw and back it out.  There may be other ways to get it out, but it
worked for me.  
	This tool, in case you're not familair, is for upright jack springs.  When
replacing the spring, the glue that anchors them in the wippen needs to be
cleaned out.  The tool itself has teeth to do this job, and they come in
handy for getting the broken screw shank out.
	Especially if you have to remove the action more than once, you'll be
dealing with broken screws for sure.  I'll second Tom's suggestion about
the lag screws.  That works well.  
	Paul McCloud
	San Diego


> [Original Message]
> From: Tom Driscoll <tomtuner at verizon.net>
> To: <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Date: 06/12/2009 5:30:05 AM
> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Wurlitzer Console
>
> Matthew,
> Conrad is right on the money with his reply. I will add that these screws 
> are about 5" long and one is a different length than the others.As Conrad 
> has said keep the spacers and the screws in order. The breakage issue is
a 
> facter. If the heads are silver colored there is less to worry about. The 
> screws more likely to break have a "Blued" look similar to a tuning pin.
> When I give a proposal for any procedure that requires action removal on 
> these things I first back all four screws part way out . If  the screw 
> twists back when you release the pressure on the screw driver and the
thing 
> feels like silly putty that's the warning sign.
>  We have scads of these here in the North East and as Conrad has
mentioned a 
> screw can break, but  in my experience this is still a rare occurance.
> The other factor although unrelated is that most of these have rubber 
> grommets that fit into the fork at the back of the key. They are often 
> petrified or at least on the way and can be noisy before you touch them
and 
> worse after. They are cheap and easy to replace. I carry a few in my kit
to 
> demonstrate to the client . I would plan on replacement .
>  As to the broken screw and it's removal  and subsequent replacement you
can 
> cut a slot with a small cold chisel and back the thing out or use an easy 
> out . Despite the fact that the screw broke the remaining section is 
> generally not frozen in the block and will come out without much trouble.
> You will not find this length roundhead  screw in the hardware store . I
use 
> 1/4" lag screws  which are the same  diameter and are available at the 
> aforementioned hardware store in the lengths that you need , Cut a slot
in 
> the head with a hacksaw for your screw driver and problem solved.
> If you are reusing the original screws put a little VJ on the threads and 
> turn the screw anti-clockwise until you hear-feel that click before
turning 
> them in.
> Lots -o -fun.
>  Tom Driscoll
>
> P.S. Check for loose tuning pins in the bass. Up here the non-bass pins
can 
> be just fine and the bass sometimes too loose. Also make sure you have a 
> thin-wall tuning head-tip. The first several notes in the tenor section
have 
> a very crowded tuning pin field and if anyone has replaced a pin with an 
> oversize one the thinwall might be needed.
>
>
>
>
>
> From: "Conrad Hoffsommer"
> > On 6/12/09, Matthew Todd <toddpianoworks at att.net> wrote:
> >> I will be removing/replacing my first action that has the dowels you
have 
> >> to
> >> unscrew instead of the normal action bolts.  Anything special I should 
> >> know
> >> for this?
> >>
> >
> > You mean the ones with the tubes with real long screws inside them?
> >
> > a. Expect to break a screw. It'll break flush with the pinblock. Then,
> > the real fun begins.
> > b. Keep them in order -  the bass tube has a cut-out section for
> > clearance for #1 string. Make sure you have it oriented properly when
> > you replace the action - severe buzzing if not...
> >
> >
> >
> > 
>