I should add that if you use alcohol and water, I found that it was best to have something else to do. Apply and re-apply and let it work for some time to get things started. When it works well, it comes off clean, leaving just glue residue. My last one (see the previous photos) came out clean other than the cracked section which had to be cut. All in all, Alcohol/Water seems like the most elegant solution to me, though, with my methods, the recip saw seems to be fastest in the end. One other nice advantage of Alcohol/Water is that you have a pretty fine template if it comes out clean. ;-] William R. Monroe On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 6:05 PM, William Monroe <bill at a440piano.net> wrote: > Hi Al, > > To address a couple things folks haven't responded to yet: > > Yes, the block is (at least usually) doweled into the front stretcher (case > cornice in S&S lingo). If memory serves, it's five dowels, the end ones are > about 2.5" - 3" in from the case sides, one in the middle of the case > cornice, and two more, evenly spaced between the middle and ends. So if you > use Alcohol and water, you'll have to slip in a thin saw to cut the dowels. > I've used a backed block placed on the stretcher and struck with a mallet, > as well as a chisel occasionally to help start/continue a separation. One > drawback to the Alcohol/Water solution I found happened on a recent project > where there was a crack in the stretcher that allowed the solution to reach > the face veneer. Made a little mess with the veneer coming off, but it was > repairable. It did (mostly work), though it was a lot of time/banging, and > I still had to clean things up later with a hand plane. > > I've also used the DeWalt 304PK. You are correct in that there is still a > bit of clean up as the saw leaves a good 1/2" of material. It's flush > cutting if you're doing rough construction. It's not remotely flush for > piano work. ;-] That said, if you like using a recip saw, this is the > one I'd recommend. Very easy to get a nice straight cut without danger of > damaging any finish. Clean up with an electric hand plane (fastest and > pretty safe) or hand plane. > > Enjoy the process. > > William R. Monroe > > > > On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 4:08 PM, Al Guecia/AlliedPianoCraft < > AlliedPianoCraft at hotmail.com> wrote: > >> Dear List, >> >> I know this has been discussed before, but I'm about to replace another >> Steinway pinblock and would like to find the most efficient and easiest way >> to proceed. I remember using a hand held circular saw on my first pinblock >> (35 years ago, very young and foolish, very scary, much too dangerous and >> too much hand work). I am now using a reciprocating saw (still too much hand >> work). >> >> I know of three methods that I have not tried and one wild and crazy >> thought. >> >> 1) The DeWalt DW304PK. Looks like this saw will be able to cut pretty >> close to the stretcher with not too much hand work afterwards. I think this >> would be much better that the recip I've been using. >> >> 2) The alcohol and water method. I don't know how time consuming this >> method is, but it seems to me, there wouldn't be too much handwork involved. >> >> 3) The Bolduc router method, (that looks pretty scary to me also), and >> also requires quite a bit of handwork. >> >> 4) And now a wild and crazy thought. I have an small, electric, chain saw. >> I was thinking about making up a jig to hold the saw and ride the stretcher. >> I just want to through this one out there to see if anyone has tried it or >> thought about it. I think this will still require a bit, but not too >> much hand cleanup afterwards. >> >> All suggestions to make this job easier with less grunt work will be >> greatly appreciated. >> >> Al >> >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20090524/57cce2cb/attachment.htm>
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC