Thanks Joe! That's a really great idea obviously borne on experience! :-) My issue for tomorrow is that I don't have a tilter. It's on my list, but just getting started in this business, it's not quite budgeted for yet... Soon, I hope. I'm going to save this and make the stackers when I get my tilter. Thanks again! Rob McCall McCall Piano Service, LLC Murrieta, CA rob at mccallpiano.com www.mccallpiano.com 951-698-1875 On Nov 03, 2009, at 07:46 , Joseph Garrett wrote: > > Rob McCall asked: "This Wednesday, I'll be installing my first set > of piano dollies for > an upright. It's for a Yamaha P22 at a nearby Middle School. I > ordered and have the Schaff #4009 twin dollies to install. (NOT the > heavyweight one). > I plan on mounting them permanently and would appreciate any tips, > advice, tricks, caveats, provisos, stipulations, etc. that you are > willing to share. > Thanks in advance... > Regards," > > Rob, > > I've found it's best to put the piano on it's back, i.e. on a > tilter. That way you can attach the "saddles" to the bottom board > and the back with strong #12 or #16 round head Screws, like it was > designed. If you only attach to the back cross span the dolley will > be a bit unstable and will work loose after the many thresholds, etc. > However putting the piano back on it's feet, with the new casters > sticking out, beyond the back of the piano, presents a stability > problem. This problem is best solved with two 4" x 6"ers or my > favorite spacers that I call "Stackers". I'll explain what those > are. Stackers are 2 (two) pieces of 3/4" plywood, (the cheap kind), > approximately 5 1/2" x 9". These are covered with carpet on one > side. AND 2" x 6"ers cut 9" long. These are drilled, through, while > stacked, with 3/8" drill in two places approximately 2" from the > length ends. When you drill the stack of 2" x 6"es, also put the > piece of 3/4" plywood in the stack and drill it half way through, > (3/8"). In each 2x6 glue 1" long 3/8" dowels into the 2"x6"s holes. > Insert them so that a 1/2" of the dowel is sticking out. Let set up. > Then, redrill the remaining part of the holes with a 13/32" drill > bit. This will allow the dowels to easily fit into the holes when > you stack the pieces. Now you can have a stacker that can be 2 1/4", > 4" or 5 1/2" tall. You need two of these to do the job at hand. > When you start to tip the piano back on it's "feet", you'll find > there is a "balance point" where the piano is approximately at a 45 > degree angle. At that point place the stackers on the floor in line > with where the bottom board will contact the top of the stacker > that's been placed the long way, front to back. Tip the piano onto > the stackers. I usually only use the 4" height for doing the regular > Twin Dolleys. For the large Twin Dolleys you may need to use eht 5 > 1/2". > The whole idea is to take the castor out of the contact point when > you are tipping it back to a vertical position. Once the piano is > vertical, again, then simply lift one end of the piano and remove > the stacker and set the piano on that twin dolley, at that end. Go > to the other end and repeat. Now the piano is safely on it's feet. > If you like you can remove just one stacker layer at a time and > bring the piano down in increments. I would advise having a helper. > It can be done by one person, but it'll be a lot safer with two. > I hope this helps > Joe > > Joseph Garrett, R.P.T. (Oregon) > Captain, Tool Police > Squares R I > > >
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