Will asks: I had given much thought to doing the cardboard thing similar to what you have outlined. I have had issues at the ends where, even after measuring, the angle of cut doesn’t exactly measure the pencil line, albeit by a small amount of error. Hence my desire to make an exact pattern that would allow me to duplicate the shape and dimensions of the block to a very fine tolerance. How are you making your cuts for the stretcher and sides?< The cardboard template is cut to fit exactly the angle of the case and stretcher, then indexed with the plate back in position. When that template is fitted over two pins in the new block, it gives me the end cut with the original angle. The stretcher cut is marked by a straight edge laid against the cardboard. When I cut the new block length, (on a radial arm saw), I take the pencil line. Then I use a table saw to cut the stretcher side and leave the line. >>How do you take out the nose bolts without removing the plate first?<< I don't. I use a dial indicator on a magnetic base attached to the plate, reading off the bridge. When I loosen the nose bolt cap, if the plate rises I see the indicator move. If it does't move, I know the bolt is holding the plate up. >>As for the tail rise of the plate, you can drape the foot of the digital electronic caliper from the top of the rim to a marking on the plate at the bass end of the tail, record that reading, then undo the rim bolts and the nose bolt nuts, watch the tail rise and record that measurement.<< I use a marked wedge under the tail so that I can put that wedge back in place when gluing in the pinblock. The wedge holds the plate at its original height so that the flex is re-installed. Regards, Ed Foote RPT -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20091018/1159b946/attachment-0001.htm>
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