Add just a dab of Teflon powder to make it easier to > cut the threads.? > Gene? ? I've also found that either running a lag screw (long, with the head cut off, in an electric drill) with a similar thread in as a tap, or just forcing the sucker in cold with an impact driver, works pretty well too.? ? Ron N? A "cheap" way to help the screws in the pin block is a toilet bowl ring, made of bees wax. A little dab on each screw make it go is smooth. Averaging 5 - 8 pin blocks a year, I've had mine last up to 10 years, Wim -----Original Message----- From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> To: pianotech at ptg.org Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2009 5:14 pm Subject: Re: [pianotech] pinblock Question Gene Nelson wrote:? > Hi John,? > For the screws I have learned to use this technique that works ok - it > is a two step process and I like it better than a tapered bit for the > big pin block screws.? > Measure the shank (may be the wrong terminology - sorry)of the screw and > add 10% and that is the drill size for the threaded part. Flag the drill > for depth and dirll the hole. For the shoulder, use the same drill size > as the shoulder, flag the drill and redrill the hole to the depth of the > shoulder.? > Add just a dab of Teflon powder to make it easier to > cut the threads.? > Gene? ? I've also found that either running a lag screw (long, with the head cut off, in an electric drill) with a similar thread in as a tap, or just forcing the sucker in cold with an impact driver, works pretty well too.? ? Depends on where you stand and how you squint.? Ron N? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20090901/5134354e/attachment.htm>
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