[pianotech] Ivers & Pond Upright #24422 (John Ross)

[John Ross]

Good one.
John Ross
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gerald Groot" <tunerboy3 at comcast.net>
To: <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 8:47 AM
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Ivers & Pond Upright #24422 (John Ross)


When you are annealing, are you also apraying?  Sorry....  It's morning and
I once again, just couldn't resist...

Jer

-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of John Ross
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 1:49 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Ivers & Pond Upright #24422 (John Ross)

The process is called annealing.
Sorry I can't remember the temperature that it must be raised to, and what
the cooling method used is.
I saw it demonstrated at a convention I was at.
The rail would not flex before the heating process, but was flexible
afterward.
The temperature was determined with a special 'wax' crayon.
John Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sigurd" <throan at gmail.com>
To: <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 12:12 AM
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Ivers & Pond Upright #24422 (John Ross)


After you have replaced the but plates the next thing to happen is the brass
rail tongues will start to break. To keep yourself out of trouble remove the
brass rail with the but plates still fastened. Have the brass rail heat
treated. Heat treating will soften the brass and you won't have any more
cracked brass for as long as you are in the tuning business.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Ross" <jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca>
To: "David Ilvedson" <ilvey at sbcglobal.net>; <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Ivers & Pond Upright #24422 (John Ross)


>I found that if you go down the row tightening the butt plates, any that
> actually tightened, were cracked.
> Since it is brass on brass, there is no reason for them to loosen.
> So if it seems loose, it is actually cracked, and should be changed, even
> although it appears to tighten, and lessen the 'wobble'.
> John Ross
> Windsor, Nova Scotia
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "David Ilvedson" <ilvey at sbcglobal.net>
> To: <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 4:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Ivers & Pond Upright #24422 (John Ross)
>
>
> And if you can't convince them to replace all...then at least mark the
> ones
> you did.   If you take an old one not yet broken, you might be able to
> crack
> it with your fingers.   Explaining what this is costing them for the
> minimum
> service charge and repair a few and what it would cost them to do it right
> in the shop.   You can do this work at the site quite easily.  I'd be
> prepare them to replace the bridle straps at the same time...
>
> David Ilvedson, RPT
> Pacifica, CA  94044
>
> ----- Original message ----------------------------------------
> From: "Chuck Behm" <behmpiano at gmail.com>
> To: pianotech at ptg.org
> Received: 4/5/2010 12:30:32 PM
> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Ivers & Pond Upright #24422 (John Ross)
>
>
>>>You say you replaced a few butt plates.
>> I always replace them all, to cut down on future problems.
>>John Ross<
>
>>Ditto on that. Whenever one of a set of something breaks, the entire set
>>is
>>suspect. That goes for such things as jack springs, bridle straps, hammer
>>butt springs, plastic elbows, etc. The problem with replacing just the
>>currently broken ones is that more are bound to break down the road. I
>>would
>>say replace them all. Chuck
>