[pianotech] Wurlitzer console action bracket hold-down screw

[David Stocker]

Paul,

It is about not clobbering the dampers on the way out or back in. There are some spinets with bolts on all but the bass/tenor break. That is the most common place for a damper head to go flying. Do a few more of the ones with “normal” bolts, and you too will curse the gods of piano design. (Present company obviously exempted, Frank!)

David Stocker, RPT
Tumwater, WA

From: paul bruesch 
Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2010 16:25
To: pianotech at ptg.org 
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Wurlitzer console action bracket hold-down screw

Hi Frank,
I don't understand. I looks clear to me that I should be able to easily remove the action with typical bolts. Just to try it, I've unscrewed the screws most of the way and the action tilts back and is only stopped by the screw head. If that wasn't there, I would be able to lift it out, I THINK. Am I missing something? Looks a lot more straightforward than some old uprights!
Thank you,
Paul Bruesch


On Sun, Dec 26, 2010 at 5:39 PM, George F Emerson <pianoguru at cox.net> wrote:

  Replacing with a traditional action bracket stub/nut configuration is not a good idea.  You need the bracket bolts entirely out of the way for action clearance to remove the action.  That's their reason for doing it that way, although it does introduce its own problems.  Quite often the problem is the opposite of yours, the screws being seized up or even breaking off.  Your problem is a bit easier to deal with than broken off screws.

  George F. (Frank) Emerson

  ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: paul bruesch 
    To: Pianotech List 
    Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2010 5:46 PM
    Subject: [pianotech] Wurlitzer console action bracket hold-down screw

    I have a 1955 Wurlitzer console with the really long screws to hold the action brackets to the plate... or more accurately, to the spacer between the action bracket and the plate. One of the holes is stripped. I can screw the screw all the way in with my fingers.  I can think of a few options, but ideally it would be nice to replace the screw/spacer with a more typical stud/nut configuration.
    Other options I think of are:
    - larger diameter screw (probably entails making a new spacer)
    - chase out the hole, fill with a (dowel?) plug and re-drill for old screw (but that results in screwing into end grain)
    - epoxy to build up the existing hole

    Any advice or other ideas?

    Thanks,
    Paul Bruesch
    Stillwater, MN


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