[pianotech] Locating & Re-Locating Plate

[Mike Spalding]

Slicker, Will.  Two birds with one stone (or drill rod).  I may try that 
next time.

William Truitt wrote:
> Pretty slick, Mike.  Thanks for sharing.  I want to add one thing:
> Recently, I have made my 1/4" drill stock pilot pins about 9" long.  This
> allows me to use them as guides when lowering the plate onto dowels or WNG
> plate bolts, so as to protect the rim a bit better.  I ream the holes out to
> about .257 to make the up and down a little easier.
>
> Will Truitt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
> Of Mike Spalding
> Sent: Saturday, July 10, 2010 4:32 PM
> To: pianotech at ptg.org
> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Locating & Re-Locating Plate
>
> For aligning plate to case, here's what I do:  Make two "headless 
> screws" by sawing the heads off of two #18 x 3" wood screws, and slot 
> the ends with hacksaw or dremel.  Before removing the plate, drill two 
> 1/4" holes down through the plate and into the rim, near each end of the 
> long bridge.  (Caution - locate the holes slightly off from the midpoint 
> between plate bolts to avoid drilling into the button screws on M&H 
> grands)  Re-drill the plate only to 5/16 diameter, and screw the 
> headless screws into the rim until the the top of the screw is flush 
> with the plate.  For plate height, measure, or mark story sticks, from 
> the top of the plate to the top of the rim at the front bass corner, 
> front treble corner, and tail.  Now the plate can be returned precisely 
> to it's original position even after the old pinblock is out and the new 
> one not yet fitted.  For fitting a pinblock to the plate and to the 
> rim/stretcher, Ed's system can't be beat.
>
> Although you didn't ask about it, there will be times when the original 
> plate location will not do.  If the piano has issues with strikepoint , 
> action geometry / capstain line,  bridge thickness, or string height, 
> you should at least consider whether relocating the plate might be part 
> of the solution.  I find myself raising plates fairly often, but have 
> not yet had to move one horizontally.
>
> Mike Spalding
>
> Ed Foote wrote:
>   
>> Ph illip asks:
>>
>>     Before removal, I generally mark a piano plate location using
>>     wedges and taking several plate-to-rim measurements. I've often
>>     wondered how much "play" a refitted plate will actually have since
>>     it's held in with a few dozen screws and bolts. What preparation
>>     and notations should be taken before removing a plate?
>>
>>        If the block is to be fitted tightly into the case and 
>> stretcher, with the plate in the original position, I drill four index 
>> holes, same dia. as a #7 bridge pin,(two on each end) in the corners 
>> of the plate, directly into the block. Then I lift the plate enough to 
>> place a pair of cardboard templates on top of the block, fitted 
>> exactly into the corners against the stretcher and sides.  I tape 
>> these two templates in place, reinstall the plate and drill holes 
>> through the cardboard. Pull the plate, fit an oversized new block and 
>> screw it to the plate.  Drill through the holes again, into the new 
>> block. 
>>         Remove new block, fit the cardboard templates over #7 pins 
>> that have been installed in the holes and draw a pencil line where the 
>> stretcher and sides are.  Cut the block ends, taking the pencil line 
>> with the kerf.  You will be within .010" of a tight fit.  The cut to 
>> fit against the stretcher is made with a line drawn against a 
>> straightedge laying against the cardboard's proximal edge.  When 
>> cutting that one, leave the pencil line.
>>       For insurance, I also measure plate height at the pinblock ends 
>> and I use a wedge between the tail of the plate and the case to make 
>> certain there is not slight rotation of the plate.  On many Steinways, 
>> you will find a plate rise at the tail when the rim and nose bolts are 
>> removed. I don't know if this is prestressed originally, plate warpage 
>> (doubtful,since I don't think cast iron warps), or perhaps the case 
>> has worked during the piano's lifetime. In event of a rise, I put a 
>> wedge under the tail and record the rise, since when I reinstall the 
>> block, I do it with it fastened to the plate, and if there is a rise 
>> to the tail, I want to keep it that way.  I put the 'rise' wedge back 
>> in so that the block will remain at its original angle as it is bedded 
>> down on the inner case and stretcher with West epoxy.  Next day, I 
>> remove the plate, install dowels  thru the block into the inner rim, 
>> and go on with the rest.
>> Hope that helps.
>>
>>
>> Ed Foote RPT
>> http://www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/index.html
>>   
>>     
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