They were both ebony so I didn't veneer over the dowels. I did use a very thin layer of bondo over the doweled area to eliminate any telegraphing. Al - High Point, NC On Jul 12, 2010, at 9:28 AM, Mike Spalding <mike.spalding1 at verizon.net> wrote: > Al, > > Thanks for sharing your method. The piano will be refinished, so the main thing, after getting an effective repair, will be to minimize the amount of re-veneering required. When you repaired the finish, did you leave the dowel end grain exposeed, or veneer over the end of the dowel? > > thanks > > Mike > > Al Guecia/AlliedPianoCraft wrote: >> Mike, >> >> In the past, I have used dowels to make this repair. I squeeze glue into the crack and than clamp to close any separation that might exist. When setting up your clamps leave at lease 3 positions open where you will drill and insert dowels. Once that dries, you can add additional dowel if you feel it's necessary. I then come in from the other corner and dowel in between the other dowels. If you're not refinishing you'll then need to repair the finish. I've only done two, and they both held up for as long as I was servicing the pianos. >> >> Al - >> High Point, NC >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "Mike Spalding" <mike.spalding1 at verizon.net> >> Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 6:51 PM >> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech at ptg.org> >> Subject: [pianotech] Rim joint repair >> >>> List, >>> >>> Look what just came into my shop for rebuilding: A 1925 Schiedmayer & >>> Soehne with square corner joints in the rim. Both joints are less than >>> totally stable, as can be seen in the photo of cracked veneer. It >>> doesn't seem to be in any danger of coming apart, but it obviously moves >>> enough to make an ugly crack. Any suggestions for stabilizing these >>> joints / cracks so that they don't telegraph through the new finish? >>> >>> thanks >>> >> >
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