[pianotech] WNG Parts Question

[Don Mannino]

Nick,

 

You should get the repining kit, with a variety of pin sizes.  Moving up one
size should eliminate the noise.

 

I heard this as well in a piano with these shanks.  I didn't do the fixing,
though, so can't report for sure that it was a loose bushing.  It sounded
like it, though.

 

Don Mannino (from Las Vegas)

 

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Nicholas Gravagne
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2010 8:30 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: [pianotech] WNG Parts Question

 

For those of you familiar with the new Wessell, Nickel and Gross (WNG)
composite action parts: 

Having recently installed WNG whippens along with shanks and flanges (w/ the
new hard bushings) I have a couple of questions.

1) What is your general, overall sense of these parts in terms of regulation
and performance? For one thing, we are finding the rep springs way too
strong, requiring more than usual "uncoiling" to obtain correct spring
strength. The shank flange friction is within WNG specs of 2 to 4 grams as
measured per the WNG site.

2) Have you encountered clicking sounds, reminiscent of the old S&S Teflon
bushings? We have on about 8 treble notes. The clicking also might have been
loose hammer heads, but these were checked and also reinforced (front and
back joints) with CA glue, followed by making sure of flange and action
screw tightness. 

Still clicking. Since the flange bushings are hard (as opposed to the
earlier WNG parts which came with cloth bushings) we cannot easily check /
repin these centers. Any WNG-specific insight on the source of clicking?

Some quick thoughts:

The action is an old Boston M&H BB that was heavily leaded. The lighter
weight and lower inertia WNG parts, including the low-mass capstans, allowed
for a significant amount of lead removal and / or reduction. 

The shanks "burn" easily and surely with a heat gun. 

The WNG "action glue" recommended for hammers, etc., works fine as long as
you don't readjust previously glued hammers (as is often done with hot
glue). If you see one leaning that was glued a few minutes earlier, better
to let it dry and then burn it over later.

Very few flanges required travel paper. 

Overall flange friction, whips and shanks, is fairly consistent.

Trimming and / or sanding off the hammer shank (tube) stubs after the hammer
glue has dried creates a black powder, some of which migrates into the
hollow tube only to escape later on to your nice, clean backchecks. Break up
the fibrous material in the tubes with a wire and vacuum out, or else allow
the shanks to hang vertical and shake-'n-tap the powder out.

Am probably forgetting something. Will post more when I know (or remember)
more. 

I know that Bruce Clark is storehouse of knowledge here, but I am also
interested in varied input and experience from working techs.

Thanks

-- 
Nick Gravagne, RPT
AST Mechanical Engineering

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