[pianotech] green piano with bass bridge problem

[Mike Spalding]

Barb,

I would do exactly as Joe says, with one small change.  Use an epoxy 
that's thin enough to wick down into the holes and in and around all the 
splinters without having to be warmed.  I use West, but System 3 would 
probably be just as good.  Apply liberally to bridge top and pins and 
notches with a brush, and don't be too fanatical about cleaning off the 
excess, as long as there's no big runs or chips in the surface.  You're 
not trying to make it pretty, just make sure the bridge pins stay put.  
It won't hurt a thing if the strings end up resting on a coating of 
epoxy rather than directly on the cap and the pins.  And, yes, tipped on 
it's back is the only way to do this.

Mike

On 11/10/2010 3:42 PM, Joseph Garrett wrote:
>
> Barbara said:
> "Ah, another sob story. This splendid Betsy Lynn spinet made by the 
> "Grand" Piano Co, was donated to a church. maybe it's the St. 
> Patrick's Day model. As usual, it has a problem--this time the bass 
> bridge. Now I know these pianos are crud, but the music director was 
> excited to have another piano around so two-piano music can be 
> performed. (ahem--whew) So, I want to make this playable (I use the 
> term loosely) for the least amount of money. The bridge is pretty 
> bad--I figure I can use epoxy--any other options? I thought about the 
> quick & dirty drill rod repair that I saw Ralph Stilwell demonstrate 
> eons ago, but because it was eons ago, I can't quite remember the 
> details. Anyone? "
> Barbara,
> I know you don't want to put too much labor into this "thing", but the 
> only quickie way I've found, would be to take the bass strings loose, 
> (put them on a brass wire as you remove them), and use a nail set to 
> position the pins back where they belong. Then mix up some Devcon Two 
> Ton Clear, (small batches is best). Have a large, (plumber's type), 
> soldeing iron. Place Iron on top of pin, while placing toothpick with 
> epoxy on the side where the hole is. The heat will "suck" the epoxy 
> right down the bridge pin  Keep doing that to each one until the 
> "hole(s)" are full of epoxy Let set for at least twenty four hours   
> Then, replace strings and pull to pitch. Seat all loops and strings to 
> bridge. That should be around 2 hours worth of work, totlal. Oh, 
> forgot, it's easier to do if the darned thing is on it's back.
> Regards,
> Joe
> Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
> Captain of the Tool Police
> Squares R I