If your epoxy repair failed, then either you used your epoxy improperly or used epoxy not suitable for the job. Whereas I presume there are a number of suitable epoxies for the job, I use West System epoxy, both unthickened and thickened with their #404 High Density filler. I recommend using their two-step epoxy method for a bridge repair where a crack runs along multiple bridge pins. The two-step method assures a bond way stronger than the wood itself, and the thickened epoxy is as strong as steel. I won't fail. Only the technician applying the proper epoxy can fail. In a case like you describe below, where the hole is simply enlarged, filling the hole with the thickened epoxy described above will suffice. If you really want to go all out, roughen up the base of the pin a bit and rub some epoxy on it and then insert the pin. This epoxy is NOT "plastic" and will not flow or deform at all! Much more efficient and a better repair than inserting wedges of steel. Terry Farrell On Nov 11, 2010, at 10:28 AM, Douglas Gregg wrote: > I think I will chime in here with a tip on bass bridge repair. I had > one of these repairs fail with just epoxy. I reasoned that epoxy is > really "plastic" as in having plasticity. Under constant tension from > the string, the plastic slowly deforms and allows the pin to creep > over again. My solution was to put a filler behind the pin that has > tipped over. i considered toothpicks but thought it might crush > eventually. I chose steel. It has to be tapered to fill the gap > correctly as the pin is actually flagpoling over. I cut the head off > of large carpet tacks and push them in behind the pin burying them in > the bridge. Sometimes I use two. then you can use any kind of glue you > want or none at all and the repair is solid. > > Douglas Gregg > Classic Piano Doc > Southold, NY 11971
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