I cut surplus glue between shank and hammer and between shank and butt away with a knife. Then I use customers stove to heat the glue/wood and pull the shank out without tools. Then I fit the new shank into the holes of butt and hammer by filing. Before applying glue I scratch the new shank with a screw driver so that the glue can pass off of the hole. Pay attention to the direction of the grain: install the shank so that in case of moving due to moisture the shank will move forward/backward and not to the left/right. Finally I cut the shank to the correct lenght with a shank cutter: http://meyne.com/start.php?languag=en&go=10details&id=438&code=0&zustand=1 The whole procedure takes about 3-5 minutes. If the old shank is broken too near to the but or hammer to pull it out you have to drill it out. Sometimeswe are lucky and the breakage point is so long that it can be glued instead of changing the shank. Gregor ------------------------ piano technician - tuner - dealer Münster, Germany www.weldert.de Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 02:02:10 -0400 From: mastaples at gmail.com To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: [pianotech] Field hammer shank replacement When you have to replace a broken, crumbly (cedar?) vertical hammer shank in the field, what method and tools do you use to do the job in an efficient and accurate manner? Thanks, Michael Staples PTG associate member -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20100911/416fc78a/attachment.htm>
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