Lim, In answer to you and Paul Revenko Jones, I have used Bill Spurlock's method of removing shanks quite successfully. For example, a Baldwin Hamilton parked in the hallway of a school had all of its bass hammers broken off. I used Bill's method to extract all of the shanks without incident, no drilling necessary. Broken *cedar* shanks OTOH just crumble as you pull on the drywall screw and drilling is usually needed in my experience. I like the comments Gregor made, though, and will give a try next time. Tom Cole limhseng at gmail.com wrote: > Hi Mike, > I have followed the method of hammer shank replacement taught by Bill > Spurlock in the PTG Pace articles. It works! Correct me if I am wrong > 'List'. > > Lim > > Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld > Powered by Gee! from StarHub > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From: * Michael Staples <mastaples at gmail.com> > *Sender: * pianotech-bounces at ptg.org > *Date: *Sat, 11 Sep 2010 02:02:10 -0400 > *To: *<pianotech at ptg.org> > *ReplyTo: * pianotech at ptg.org > *Subject: *[pianotech] Field hammer shank replacement > > > When you have to replace a broken, crumbly (cedar?) vertical hammer > shank in the field, what method and tools do you use to do the job in > an efficient and accurate manner? > > Thanks, > > Michael Staples > PTG associate member > > > >
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