After some lack of success, I recently recalled a detail that Randy Potter teaches about the drywall screw method... apply heat to the screw until the butt starts to feel quite warm. And as Gregor mentions, I have found it very helpful to cut and scrape off the glue collar before using any extraction method. In my (limited) experience, it seems that the glue collar plays a pretty significant role in the strength of the bond. Paul Bruesch Stillwater, MN On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 11:45 AM, <PAULREVENKOJONES at aol.com> wrote: > David: > > That is a full and detailed answer. Much appreciated. I have yet to find > the drywall screw solution to be effective in the majority of cases, and > almost always cut the shank flush and drill it out. > > The angle of the hammer bore can be duplicated on the tail of the hammer > and followed by eye to get it relatively close. There is always a tiny bit > of slop in the drilling job, and this allows for more precision when gluing > up. You can also clamp the hammer either to a neighbor or between neighbors > while the glue sets up. > > Paul > > In a message dated 9/11/2010 4:33:51 A.M. Central Daylight Time, > da88ve at gmail.com writes: > > I have a brad-point 7/32" bit with a hex drive end that fits > my cordless screwdriver. With old cedar shanks, I don't try to > pull out the old shank; I just start drilling. One can feel > when the bit hits the harder maple at the bottom of the hole. > But with maple shanks, I use the method of first drilling a > #39 hole into the old shank, then dribbling a few drops of > wallpaper remover/vinegar mixture into the hole, then driving a > short drywall screw into the hole. Then the screw is heated > with a cigarette lighter or mini-torch until it steams and/or > bubbles, then the screw & shanks are pulled out as a unit with > the shank extractor. This works most of the time, and when it > does, is superior to using one of the drill bit guides > available. But when it doesn't, then I drill it out with the > bit mentioned above. I keep a little bottle of the remover > liquid, an eyedropper, & the #39 drill in a metal Band-Aid box > in the car. > The butt is replaced in the action, then the new shank > inserted and marked for length with a neighboring hammer as > reference. I cut it to length with a small hacksaw or Swiss > Army knife saw blade, knurl both ends either with the sawblade > or the edge of a file, mark which way the grain will face > (baseball bat label theory), do a dry fit, then swirl glue onto > the ends and after assembling, hold things in place until they > set. > I'll admit I don't have a great way of duplicating the > proper angle in the hammer molding of angled hammers and am not > impressed with most of the jigs available. If the old shanks > pulls out, great -- it's already "pre-drilled." But if it > doesn't, you have to guesstimate as close as possible, or buy > one of the awkward, not-as-accurate-as-they-claim jigs. I > usually use the shank clamp and extractor tool to pull the old > shank out of the molding. If too short, I saw it off flush, > hold the molding with a Vise-grips and drill it out, > "eyeballing" the angle. > --David Nereson, RPT > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Michael Staples" <mastaples at gmail.com> > To: <pianotech at ptg.org> > Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 12:02 AM > Subject: [pianotech] Field hammer shank replacement > > > > When you have to replace a broken, crumbly (cedar?) vertical > > hammer shank in > > the field, what method and tools do you use to do the job in > > an efficient > > and accurate manner? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Michael Staples > > PTG associate member > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20100911/a3eb873c/attachment.htm>
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