[pianotech] price for fallboard decal

Noah Frere noahfrere at gmail.com
Sat Dec 10 15:57:06 MST 2011


I unfortunately didn't take as careful note of the letters as I should
have. Thanks though,

On Sat, Dec 10, 2011 at 10:42 AM, Paul McCloud <pmc033 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Hi, Noah:
> Are the letters under the finish, or do the letters protrude and are
> exposed?  Most imports have exposed letters, but there are some embedded
> under the finish.  The finish was supposed to protect the letters from
> tarnishing, but they will eventually do so, and there's nothing you can do
> except to strip and refinish.  Except that they are usually polyester
> finishes and can't be easily stripped.  If they are exposed, then just use
> brass polish as David says.
> Paul McCloud
> San Diego
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Noah Frere" <noahfrere at gmail.com>
> To: pianotech at ptg.org
> Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 7:17:26 AM
> Subject: Re: [pianotech] price for fallboard decal
>
> in retrospect it probably is tarnish. thanks,
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 10, 2011 at 3:10 AM, David Nereson < da88ve at gmail.com > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 3:03 PM, Noah Frere < noahfrere at gmail.com > wrote:
>
>
> Just throwing this out there before I call specific companies. Just
> looking for a ballpark figure: how much to put in a new metal Schimmel
> decal on a grand fallboard. The old one is rusty, and it must be done to a
> high standard.
>
> Ballpark figure is fine,
>
> I've no idea, but if it's metal, it's not a decal. Decals are usually of
> two types: the model airplane type that you soak in water, then slide off
> onto the model, and the piano type which is "glued" on with the wet lacquer
> or varnish, then the paper backing is soaked off, and more finish is
> applied to the decal.
> I've never heard of inlaid brass letters becoming "rusty." Are you sure
> it's not just tarnish? I would try Brasso applied with a Q-tip, or maybe a
> Scotch-brite pad or fine steel wool rubbed on the letters with the end of a
> hammer shank.
> But if they're actually rusty and need to be replaced, that's specialized
> inlay work. I would call Schimmel.
> --David Nereson, RPT
>
>
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