Alternatively, order the hammers already bored and shanked (if that is a service that Schaff offers, I know Brooks does). Although I have been boring my own grand hammers for nearly 30 years, I usually get my upright sets this way. It's faster and easier, and worth the small additional cost for shanking. You'll have to establish the length of the shanks afterwards. Plus, if you are replacing the dampers at the same time, you can do most of the damper adjustment with no hammers and shanks in the way - just like they do in the factory. That is a big plus. Will Truitt From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of David Love Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2011 5:17 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] hammer removal Why don't you just measure the angles and the bore distance and order a set from someone who can do the job without the shanks or the hammers or, better, bore them yourself. You will have to eventually and you may as well start now. David Love www.davidlovepianos.com From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Ed Carwithen Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2011 1:02 PM To: Piano List Subject: [pianotech] hammer removal I need to replace the hammers on an upright piano. Schaff wants the sample hammers with the shaft attached. No matter what kind of solvent I have tried the shaft stays fimly in the butt, and comes out of the hammer. Yes, I am using the right hammer/butt extractor. Yes, I have removed the glue collar around the shaft on the butt end. I have tried the wall paper paste solvent, glue remover and acetone. No cigar! What will actually dissolve the old glue? Any Ideas????? Ed Carwithen John Day, OR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20111001/16d8b4c3/attachment-0004.htm>
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