Thanks, Douglas I'll copy this and the thought from Joe and put them in the Acrilykey box! Laura On Sep 10, 2011, at 11:11 PM, Douglas Gregg wrote: > Laura, > The Acrylikey repairs with the original monomer or with CA glue hold > up very well and does not pick up dirt. It makes are a nice permanent > repair. If you get the color match good the first time, it will stay > that way. Even if you don't get the color perfect, if the repair chip > is feathered out as recommended, the color change is gradual and does > not stand out. That means to file the square edge to a make a gentle > valley that goes about 1/16 inch or more back into the good ivory. > This is a bit counter-intuitive as it make s the repair area bigger, > but it works. since the ivory and the acryikey material are both > somewhat transparent, the taper makes for a transition of light > transmission that is less noticeable. > > I did a fancy Chickering with full ivories. That is, it had no heads > and tails. They were all one piece, so replacing it was not an option. > These are rare. On the first try, the repair was not a perfect match. > I was about to redo it when the customer came in and asked which key > it was I repaired. She looked pretty carefully and did not see it, so > I figured it was good enough. > > The most important thing is to carefully shape the surface of the > repair with the fine side of the finger nail file and then polish it > with a fine abrasive cleaner. I like White Diamond polish which I also > use on brass. It is amazing on metal and also on ivories and plastics. > It is important to get the texture the same in the repair as the in > the ivory. If not, it might show up later when dirt gets trapped in > scratches. It is not hard to polish it out and it is really important. > > Douglas Gregg > Classic Piano Doc
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