[pianotech] Replacing dampers on a 1908 Steinway upright

[Encore Pianos]

Hi Terry:  

 

Wim is absolutely right on this one.  He is saying this because he has come
upon many a Steinway damper job where the old levers have broken at the
pivot point or worn so much that they wander to the side, with singing
strings the result.  Often many more than one doing this.  I have seen this
many times, like Wim.  

 

When I replace the dampers on a Steinway upright, I use something like the
Tokiwa kit and always replace the levers.  Most of the time, I am replacing
hammers at the same time, so I have the old shanks removed from the butts,
and the butts screwed to the rail.  Like in the factory, I have easy access
to the wires to do all fore-aft and side to side bending to space the
dampers to the strings and damper timing for pedal lift.  If you are using
barrels instead of the old damper heads, there is only one bend to make and
refine for damper spacing.  It takes a lot less time to do than you think
(that's why it is a factory method).  With the barrels spaced out at roughly
the proper distance (end samples each section, then a straight edge check),
you go through and quickly make your bend to center the barrel over the
strings.  Then glue your damper heads with felts onto the barrels.  Then
refine your spacing and adjust for lift.  

 

You will have the satisfaction of a good job that will be trouble free for a
very long time.  I think you will find the damper bending easier than you
think.  

 

Good luck, 

 

Will Truitt  

 

 

 

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of tnrwim at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 3:20 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Replacing dampers on a 1908 Steinway upright

 

 

That's not going to happen. The less I have to do the better. And I don't
relish having to bend a whole set of damper rods! No thanks.  Confused
<http://tracking.technodesignip.com/?action=count&projectid=642&contentid=65
66&referrer=-&urlaction=redirect&url=http://images.Quebles.com/hotmail/emoti
cons/1511517.GIF> 


Terry "UniGeezer" Peterson


Terry

 

Take it from someone who has done this, on pianos this old, the wood is very
brittle. The process of removing and putting the levers back on puts a lot
of strain on that very thin strip of wood of the lever. But suit yourself.
Maybe after you get a few calls backs, you'll change your mind.

 

Wim

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: pianolover 88 <pianolover88 at hotmail.com>
To: pianotech <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Mon, Feb 6, 2012 6:42 pm
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Replacing dampers on a 1908 Steinway upright

That's not going to happen. The less I have to do the better. And I don't
relish having to bend a whole set of damper rods! No thanks.  Confused
<http://tracking.technodesignip.com/?action=count&projectid=642&contentid=65
66&referrer=-&urlaction=redirect&url=http://images.Quebles.com/hotmail/emoti
cons/1511517.GIF> 


Terry "UniGeezer" Peterson
"Over 50, and not '2' Tired!" 
 <http://unigeezer.com/> www.unigeezer.com



  _____  

From: tnrwim at aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2012 18:17:51 -1000
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Replacing dampers on a 1908 Steinway upright

Terry

 

In addition to replacing the felts, I would highly recommend that you also
replace the levers. My experience ha shown that they get weak where they are
screwed to the flange, and you might as well replace them now, instead
later.

 

Wim

Sent from my iPhone


On Feb 6, 2012, at 2:49 PM, pianolover 88 <pianolover88 at hotmail.com> wrote:

I"m replacing worn hammers and *dampers* on a client's old Steinway upright,
circa 1908. Having never replaced dampers on this particular model, I was
unaware that--apparently--replacing dampers on this piano is a NIGHTMARE,
and one of the most difficult damper jobs of ANY piano, either upright or
grand. Is this true? This gloomy scenario was communicated to me by a tech
who works at a local piano supply house, but I'd rather not mention who. 

I was told that the felts, especially the treble, are 'tapered' and that you
must "peel little layers off as you work your way up", or they won't lift
properly, and won't dampen correctly. Basically I was told that ALL the
dampers are almost impossible to get right with modern day replacements,
without significant modification. Pics attached are from the action showing
the dampers. I would appreciate ANY advice the forum member may have, and
what you might suggest, short of declining the job!

PS: Brooks LTD told me that the Tokiwa TDVK damper kit (pic also attached)
would work well. Your thoughts on this would also be appreciated.

Thanks,

Terry "UniGeezer" Peterson
"Over 50, and not '2' Tired!" 
 <http://unigeezer.com/> www.unigeezer.com

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