[pianotech] Case repair question

[David Love]

On this particular Steinway the plate would not come out without removing
some of the "wedge" under the bass glide.  Not sure how they got it in there
in the first place.  Often a slight angling of the plate will give clearance
on that side but this particular plate was so snug up against the rim on the
bent side that I simply could not get it out without removing a small amount
of material there.  I tried everything, lowering the nose bolts and strut
bolts as far as possible to give me more wiggle room, but nothing game me
enough clearance no matter whether I angled the treble side up first or the
bass side.  I've had this problem on occasion.

In retrospect I could have removed the veneer more carefully but didn't.  In
the future I would simply make two vertical cuts on either end and then then
chisel a piece out in one chunk from the underside of the glide that could
simply be glued back in.  In the past I have also taken a fine Japanese saw
and just cut off the wedge in one piece and then glued it back on later.  

David Love
www.davidlovepianos.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Garrett [mailto:joegarrett at earthlink.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 4:43 PM
To: David Love; pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: RE: [pianotech] Case repair question

David,
Er...yer welcome.;-(
I've read further into your posts regarding this. So, it appears that it is
NOT Black, which was my initial take on the photo. To that I say: OOPS!
Sorry, on that account.
Now that I know more of the facts about this "repair", you have said that
your original intent was to find out others ways that could apply. I applaud
that. However, as is a lot of posts, on this list, we seldom get ALL the
pertinent data on the initial query. This causes all kinds of problems, as
you well know. One factoid that has not been brought forward, is why the
initial need to get busy with a chisel? Although it is a moot point at this
juncture, I'm curious why. <G> Now, more to the point...How would I have
fixed that? First, I would have been more meticulous/exacting in the removal
of the wood. I would have cut a piece of plywood, w/the appropriate veneer
attatched, to a reasonable fit. I, then, would have installed that piece
with epoxy mixed with sawdust/wood powder, a medium thickness. In that
process, I would have masked off, so that the stuff would not sag, etc.
(better yet, put the piano on a skid and then do the repair). I would make
sure that it was all a smidgeon "proud". I would have leveled/beveled the
patch with my favorite
tool: a power hacksaw scraper. After it was all smooth, I would have sealed
the patch and sanded to the sealed pore appearance of the surrounding area.
If necessary, I would have used stain in the sealer, to match the
surrounding area, as well. After all of that, I would have reinstalled the
Music Desk Glide and blended that into the area. Then a few final coats of
the appropriate finish. Rub it out and voila' a repair worthy of the Piano
In Question. BTW, that is the way MY Refinisher would have done it, as well.
I've had "refinishers" that used bondon and such. That  sort of thing,
usually comes back to bite one in the butt, imo! Of course, there are
refinishers and then there are REFINISHERS.<G> (Mine is a 3rd generation
shop that has specialized in top notch PIANO work. They do all sorts of
furniture as well.<G> They do have a full service Wood Shop, which is needed
when you are working with wood, imo. I hope that helps, Regards, Joe


> [Original Message]
> From: David Love <davidlovepianos at comcast.net>
> To: <joegarrett at earthlink.net>; <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Date: 6/6/2012 7:27:58 AM
> Subject: RE: [pianotech] Case repair question
>
> Thanks Joe.
>
> David Love
> www.davidlovepianos.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On
Behalf
> Of Joseph Garrett
> Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 7:12 AM
> To: pianotech
> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Case repair question
>
> David said:
> "I don't really want to try and inlay a piece of wood. It's a bit too
thick
> for bondo but my thought was to use this product I have around the 
> shop
made
> by Abatron called Wood Epox, or something like that. It's a two part 
> putty that is sandable yet durable. What I'm wondering is whether it 
> provides a surface that I will be able to build up easily to take and 
> match a finish with a similar sheen. Anybody used this product for this? "
>  
> David,
> Jees! If you already had something to mickey mouse the darned thing, 
> then why didn't you just say so?!!! Sheesh! It amazes me, how inept 
> some people are at doing basic woodworking things!
> JOE
>
>
> Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
> Captain of the Tool Police
> Squares R I