[pianotech] Kohler & Campbell Hammer Springs

[Joseph Garrett]

Joe, (the other one.<G>)
Once I get the rail out, I don't want to ever have to do all the "dancin'
around" to get it back in...so, I take the rail to the wood jawed vice and
drill out the screw holes to accomodate 1/4" bolts. Then I drill out the
brackets for tapping to 1/4"-20 threads. I remove the felt at those points.
I use 1/4"-20 x 1" R.H. Screws to re-install the rail. Easy/Peasy.<G> In
the past, there have been several manufacturers that did this, including
S&S. The rest just didn't get it, imo.<G> BTW, most action brackets are
more than  beefy enough for this modification. Also, Make Sure you have the
rail firmly clamped at the points of drilling out, so that it doesn't
split. I've only run into a couple of spring rails that were too wimpy for
this modification, so have at it....(gitterdun).
Joe


> [Original Message]
> From: Joe Goss <imatunr at srvinet.com>
> To: <joegarrett at earthlink.net>; <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Date: 5/11/2012 8:27:49 AM
> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Kohler & Campbell Hammer Springs
>
> Hi Joe and Paul,
> Having never used an offset screwdriver to remove this rail, nor even
owned 
> one, even for rocker arm  lost motion adjustment,
> I use a 1/8" screwdriver blade to remove the screws. Sometimes but
seldom, 
> if one is tenacious, it is necessary to remove the felt blocks.
> Take care in replacing the, (I call it the whisker rail) return spring
rail 
> so that you do not bend the springs out of shape.
> Joe please describe the screw replacement that you do.
> Joe Goss BSMusEd MMusEd RPT
> imatunr at srvinet.com
> www.mothergoosetools.com
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Joseph Garrett" <joegarrett at earthlink.net>
> To: "pianotech" <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 9:09 AM
> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Kohler & Campbell Hammer Springs
>
>
> > Paul said:
> > "1980 Kohler & Campbell 41.5" Mahogany Console, good condition, except 
> > that
> > several hammer springs have broken up close to the rail/coil, of course
> > causing hammers not to return. Springs do not appear rusty, but have
what
> > looks like verdigris at the coil. Might this have caused spring
weakness?
> > Not sure why they are breaking. Piano is very clean, rust- and
mold-free,
> > etc. Excellent, even tuning pin torque throughout. Anyone know anything
> > about this era of K&C consoles regarding hammer spring weakness? They do
> > not seem like very strong springs, very thin wire.
> >
> > Also would like to know if the spring rail will remove easily without 
> > taking
> > other parts off the brackets?this will be my first time doing this job
if
> > they opt for it.
> >
> > They have already mentioned, even without a quote yet, that they thought
> > this would be a rather expensive job considering they only paid $300
for 
> > the
> > piano. I'm thinking I'd have to bill 5 hours total for this work.
Thoughts
> > about whether it is worth doing this job on this piano? Everything else
> > looks in "good" condition."
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Paul,
> > This has been covered many times before. The cause of the spring
failure 
> > is
> > the chemicals in the felt on the rail, that is touching the springs.
It's 
> > a
> > 4 hour job...max! I can do it in 2! AND, I would convert the rail
> > attachment system, as well. You will need an off-set screwdriver,
(ratchet
> > types are best), to remove the rail, initially. The quality of that
piano,
> > (without my having seen it!), is far better than the Chinese Crap that
is
> > out there today, imo. It's actually made out of real wood. What the
client
> > paid for it is of no relevence! Just fix it and they will have a good 
> > piano
> > for their uses. That's my take on that
> > Joe
> >
> >
> > Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
> > Captain of the Tool Police
> > Squares R I
> >
> > 
>