[pianotech] Broken Key Repair

[Jack Houweling]

I have always just glued and clamped the keys and never used veneer.
I would dry fit the pieces then trace it on a paper. I would also check neighbor keys for reference on my tracing.After clamping I would see if my key matched exactly my outline on the paper.
Never had a problem.

Regards,
Jack Houweling 
Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-11-09, at 8:46 AM, chrisstor at aol.com wrote:

> On 11/9/2012 9:44 AM, chrisstor at aol.com wrote:
> > A broken key also gets pieces of veneer glued to both sides, spanning
> > over the crack.  Trim, sand, and feather the veneer patches so there's
> > no rubbing on adjacent keys.  The repair is stronger than the key ever
> > would be.
> > Chris -
> 
> Interestingly (or not), I've always used manilla card or folder stock 
> for this, with never a failure. It's easier to get and to carry than 
> veneer, less delicate to handle, requires no sanding and feathering, 
> easy to cut and to trim after installation, and requires no clamping to 
> glue as it doesn't curl up as it soaks up glue moisture.
> 
> Ron N
> Good idea, Ron. I've always got business cards on hand.  I'll give your idea a try.
> Yeah, the reason why I wrote was because Marshall was asking about fixing a broken key,
> 
> and he was describing how he learned it. (Using adjacent keys as clamping anvils is a good
> 
> idea to keep the broken key repair aligned, straight, and flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I noticed was missing in his description was the very important veneer
> 
> (or card stock) splints that should be on both sides of the key.  I've come across
> 
> broken key repairs (done by others) that didn't have the splints, only to find the the 
> 
> key broke in the same place because they didn't dry fit the parts cleanly, didn't clamp,
> 
> didn't use the splints, or all of the above.  It much more difficult to properly repair
> 
> the key the second time through because of all the dry glue blebs in the usually jagged
> 
> end of the break.
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