[pianotech] My first square

[John Ross]

I think it was the last time I tuned a square, after having swore off them, due to always having a sore back after the tunings.
The owner said he would help, so I went behind after removing the lid, I tuned and he played the notes, numerous hits per note.
At least my back wasn't sore.
John Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia.


On 2013-01-15, at 5:41 PM, "Joseph Garrett" <joegarrett at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Paul said:
> "A university that I tune for has received the gift of a restored
> Schomacker square grand, circa 1870. Perhaps it was one of those things
> they were compelled to accept, so as not to potentially offend a wealthy
> donor -- a white elephant, if you will. 
> 
> I looked it over for a few minutes today. 
> It is a truly beautiful piece of furniture. I don't know how long ago the
> restoration was done; the strings and tuning pins look brand new, but it
> sounds as if it has never been tuned since. Not one to back down from a
> challenge, I'm going to attempt to tune this baby in the next few days. I
> tried my regular tuning lever (with an extra long head) for size and it
> looks like it should work fine. 
> 
> I have never attempted to tune a square before. I assume this piano should
> not be tuned to A440, correct? Maybe 435? Anybody have any other advice?
> 
> Thanks,"
> Paul,
> Use the shortest head/tip that will "just" clear the damper levers! Do not
> extend the tuning hammer. You first need to know the preparatory things
> needed to do before putting tuning hammer to pin.<G> 1. Remove the music
> desk "flapper". (take the right music desk mount off and slide the
> "flapper" to the right, to remove.) 2.Remove the lid and get it out of the
> way. If the "rebuilder" put anything other than removable hinge pins in,
> they need to be altered so that the hinge pins are removeable just like a
> standard grand.  3. Take the damper upstop rail off. Be careful about
> dropping the nuts down into the action!DAMHIK 4. Make sure the "rebuilder"
> labeled ALL of the tuning pins, else you spend an inordinate amount of time
> trying to figure out which tuning pin you are one. I suggest putting a
> white front rail punching on A4 and green ones on the other A's. If the
> tuning pins are not labeled, you should do it with a Narrow Point Sharpie.
> Do it neatly or have someone who does caligraphy do it for you. 5. Check to
> make sure that all hammers are hitting the appropriate notes and are not
> hanging up on neighbors. (one of the biggest mistakes of "rebuilders" is
> they don't do an adequate job of thinning the hammers for proper clearance
> and proper spacing.) 6. Pull the action, if necessary to get the spacing
> right. The best thing would be to have an action truck to slide the action
> on to. Always use the Wire Handle in the center of the front key frame
> rail. Do not grab cheek blocks to remove, until all of the hammers are
> clear of the stretcher! Otherwise, you WILL break a hammer in the action
> removal process! 7. Strip the piano, using Hammer Spring Rail Cloth, Schaff
> #311R/G.(I like to use a strip about 6' long.  Do not strip with standard
> muting strips, it's too thick! Start stripping between the bottom-most
> wound Bi-chords at the point where the last bi-chords on the long bridge
> intersects. Push the strip down through that set of unisons. Use a 6"
> machinist's ruler or such to do the pushing.<G> In this way you are muting
> two sets of bi-chords with one "push".<G> 7. You are now ready to tune. I
> suggest using an ETD to save your sanity. <G> What you do not know is
> wether the "rebuilder" rescaled the piano for 440, unless you know who the
> "rebuilder" was, in which case ASK! If that is not possible, then you will
> have to ASSUME that the original strings were duplicated. In that case, I
> would use 435 cps as a tuning standard, in relation to the age of the
> piano. If it needs to be pitch raised, (and I suspect it does.<G>), use the
> pitch raise program in your ETD or get my program from the December 1999
> issue of the PTJ.
> Well, that's the short version of how to do the piano. BTW, if you are not
> 5'6" tall you are going to have a great deal of back problems. Or, if you
> are over 6'3", the same will apply. I suggest leaning against the case, as
> you tune, to support your body more. Take numerous breaks!!! Do lots of
> stretching exercises to keep yourself flexible and that should help the
> back fatigue thing. Good stomach muscles help to support your back, btw.<G>
> If you need additional assistance, please feel free to call or write.
> Calling is easier, allbeit more expensive<G>but we can cover more
> information w/o me getting hand cramps!
> Good luck,
> Joe
> 
> 
> Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
> Captain of the Tool Police
> Squares R I
> 


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