[pianotech] Reducing tuning time (was Re: frustrated)

[Encore Pianos]

If you read my earlier posts, you will find that I do the downward pull,
followed by a quick upward push that progressively slows down as I begin to
approach the desired pitch point.  I have long done the downward pull as a
means to avoid string breakage.  My experience is not limited to pianos
close to pitch, and I have not suffered inordinate string breakage.  I have
tuned this way for years.  

 

Will Truitt 

 

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of John Ashcraft
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 2:56 PM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Reducing tuning time (was Re: frustrated)

 

I would put out a general caution on the slow-drag method: it is appropriate
on pianos that are close to pitch. If you use it in a pitch raise, you're
inviting strings to break. Use a downward pull, then a quick upward impulse,
or series of impulses, to raise--not a steady pull.

--John Ashcraft

On Tue, Jan 22, 2013 at 3:14 PM, Encore Pianos <encorepianos at metrocast.net>
wrote:

On occasion I do the same thing as Susan while using this method.  

 

While no one method works on all pinblocks (nothing works on some!), this
slow drag is my go to day to day tuning method.  It works well with most
pianos, not just the trouble monsters.  Generally, as I am dragging the pin
up to pitch I am hitting the note a couple of times per second.  If you have
a nice tuning rhythm going, you'll get a feeling of just when the pin is
going to drop in and land on a dime on the octaves, and the unisons as well.
When the piano has a reasonably good  block, I can hit it on the first try
75 to 80% of the time, and be stable - even in the top octave.  I also use
this method when doing concert tuning.  

 

Will Truitt

 

 

 

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of John Ashcraft
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 4:27 PM


To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Reducing tuning time (was Re: frustrated)

 

I use that (ease up in pitch with vigorous blows) technique on old Knabe
grands, to name the certain kind of piano where I find the technique
necessary.

--John Ashcraft

On Mon, Jan 21, 2013 at 5:06 PM, Susan Kline <skline at peak.org> wrote:

There is a certain kind of piano which I find has better stability if I very
slowly ease up 
to the pitch but not beyond, beating pretty vigorously on the note as I go. 

If one pulls the pitch over, and then attempts to bang it back down, one
should go as little 
over as possible. The smaller the adjustments, the better the stability will
be. 

Susan


Elwood Doss wrote: 

IF you want to keep your customers, especially those with discriminating
hearing, you will be sure to set the strings and pins.  Not only will
strings and pins relax and go out of tune while you're tuning but often they
will slowly relax and go out of tune after the piano tuner is gone.  Also
when the customer is playing the piano the strings can slip out of tune.
Time is important, but that 10 minutes you save could cost you customers.
It is tempting to pull the string up to pitch and leave it, but I would
resist the temptation, especially if you want to have a lasting quality
outcome.
Joy!
Elwood Doss, Jr.
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Duaine Hechler [mailto:dahechler at att.net] 
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 5:36 PM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Reducing tuning time (was Re: frustrated)
 
The one thing that, in my last couple of tunings, I am trying to do is to
concentrate on - not - going way sharp before honing in on the unisons. I
shaved off about 10 minutes, the last couple of times.
 
Do most of you come up to pitch or go sharp then come back down?
 
I learned to go sharp then come back down, except in the high tenor, I seem
to here it better coming up to pitch.
 
Thanks, Duaine
 
On 01/12/2013 04:41 PM, Mike Kurta wrote:
  

    I had my wife sew two lengths together.  Voila! Now I have only 
one mute strip to contend with.  Length is no problem, when I put it away I
fold it in half length, half again, and lay it in my case. Easy.
    Mike Kurta
 
    ----- Original Message -----
    *From:* Ron Nossaman  <mailto:rnossaman at cox.net>
<mailto:rnossaman at cox.net>
    *To:* pianotech at ptg.org  <mailto:pianotech at ptg.org>
<mailto:pianotech at ptg.org>
    *Sent:* Saturday, January 12, 2013 9:45 AM
    *Subject:* Re: [pianotech] Reducing tuning time (was Re: 
frustrated)
 
    On 1/12/2013 8:06 AM, tunerboy3 at comcast.net
<mailto:tunerboy3 at comcast.net> <mailto:tunerboy3 at comcast.net> wrote:
 
    > You order it like one solid piece, something like 72" or 84" long or
    > so, and cut to desired length or, don't cut it at all.  I ordered 6
    > or 10 of them so I could experiment with it.  I wound up cutting one
    > of them down the center all the way and using that one in the treble.
 
    I cut a strip diagonally down it's length and get two tapered lengths.
    Ideal in verticals to get around the dampers in that last section where
    there's no room  - especially in Baldwins. A full width strip works very
    well in the bass, or two of them if one leaks too much. Pearl River
    passed out a terrific strip at the convention one year. Thin action
    cloth sewed to buckskin (or Ecsaine, but it acts like buckskin). Best
    tenor strip I've ever used in grands. I've wished I had managed to get a
    couple more, but they were pretty protective of them and they wouldn't
    be difficult to make when the one I have gives up the ghost.
 
 
    >  I don't now why but string spacing tends to
    > be a little greater in the tenor on verticals than in the treble.
 
    Fan angles, I'd say. I use a narrow strip of thicker action cloth here.
    Ron N
 
    

--
Duaine Hechler
Piano, Player Piano, Pump Organ - Tuning, Servicing & Rebuilding
(314) 838-5587 <tel:%28314%29%20838-5587>  / dahechler at att.net /
www.hechlerpianoandorgan.com Home & Business user of Linux - 13 years
 
 
 
  

 

 

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