I don't know about 'logic' but I will tell what I _do_do. (must be some kind of joke there). First, exactly what are your objectives. Are they realistic or a form of self flagellation? And at whose behest? And at what cost of your time? For S&S Teflon bushings I use the polished pins, no scale or reamer (rarely), good cutters and a pin pusher. First swig test the hammer flange. Spec is 6 swings, no more, no less. It would be helpful if we had quarter sized pins but we don't. The Europeans do have tapered pins but I have never had any to try. If the swing is to tight remove the pin and check which bushing is too tight. I then use a long center pin to "waller" out the hole slightly. Teflon does not have a plastic memory (one reason it does not work well) so any deformation will be permanent. Recheck both sides then reassemble using the same pin. Retest. If it is too loose then remove the pin, get a slightly larger pin and check BOTH side for friction fit. If one side is too tight "waller" it out and reassemble. Swing test. Once you have learned the feel for a properly fit pin you can repin the rest of the action and FEEL how it should fit. You fingers are extremely accurate tension gages, use them. With all other flange types I use the swing test, or feel test, and use the Mannino broaches and work for six to eight swings. With S&S "Teflon felt" bushings you can only do what you can do but six swings if good. I have never been pleased with the solidity of the pinning for these centers. They wobble around no matter what you do. Also the bushing can be entirely too easily pushed out so be careful. If you really want to control friction in the action get David Stanwood to install a set of friction control screws in the hammer shanks. You can then control friction to a Gnats Aspiration. Newton > which list it was on. I do, however, remember that, as is so often the case, Newton > had the best logic. > > Spend the bucks. Do it right...the first time. > > Best. > > HG
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