> My questions are: does one determine FW strictly by > (Stanwood)calculation? > What happens to leads that fall 'in between' where they should be? Do you > have to plug and redrill? I've heard mention of partial width leads being > replaced in empty holes where full width leads use to be. Logistically how > is this done? Does one cut leads to various standard widths(weights) to > test on the scale? I haven't done releading to this degree of accuracy yet, > but it almost seems like removal, plugging, and starting from scratch might > be a viable way to approach this. > Ken Jankura > Newburg, PA With the DS system the weights of the hammers come into play, which will skew your FW, but weighing each key will get you more firmly into the ball park. I have a little jig I made that cuts 1/2" weights on the band saw. It has a taper so I end up with 1/3, 1/2 and 2/3 thicknesses. Easy to construct and use. I have a heavy pair of diagonal cutters that I use to cut weights down bit by bit until the scale reaches the desired point. This little piece is whacked (lovely term) with a hammer until it almost reaches desired diameter then I use the arbor press to finish the job. When it is in place in the key I use medium CA to secure it in place. if it is too small for a secure press fit. I made a tray with half round slots, one for each key, with the sharps in their proper place, in which I place all the weights to be replace in the keys. Easy to keep straight that way. I do not like to use my drill press as an arbor press. The quill and gears were not designed with 500 to 1,000 pounds per square foot in mind. An arbor press is 30 bucks, a drill press is 400 bucks. You work out the values! I weigh several hammers in the set to get an idea of their weight and if I have to taper them or increase their weight. I input these weights in a quadratic equation so I can see fit within the guidelines provided by David. With a little manipulation with a spread sheet I will get a print out of the target weight for each Strike Weight. I will trim tails and sides to get the weight down and I will drill 1/8" holes in the moldings to insert 1/8" plumbers solder which is pressed in using a cut off roofing nail, using the arbor press. I CA the nail head to the underside of the arbor. Knocks off easily when done. Newton
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC