Roger, Glad you could connect with them. Please let us know how it all turns out. It's always great to have an actual case to back up claims....:-) Greg Roger C Hayden wrote: > To those who are curious: > > I'm persuing the locknstitch method. I've talked to them in Calif. and > they want pictures. The method for me is to cut out (saw out) the crack > and heat affected area, make a steel 'plug' to fit back in, and metal > stitch it back together. Stronger than original. They are using this > method on pianos already. > > Gary, my contact, has already taught Pianotechs out there on the left > coast, and was invited to teach it at the Nat. convention in Arlington > but couldn't schedule it this year. > > We're on to something!! > > Thanks for the tip, Greg > > Roger Hayden, RPT > > On Tue, 21 Mar 2000 09:12:11 -0800 Greg Granoff <gjg2@humboldt.edu> > writes: > > > > > > Roger C Hayden wrote: > > > > > OK, Guys, I need help > > > > > > Hazleton Bros. 5'10" Grand. Neatly rebuilt, (by me). Too little > > > downbearing in the treble, so I lowered it a bit. (I've Done such > > things > > > before.) Brought up the tension nice and evenly, installed > > dampers, > > > sounding good at A-440, ready for fine tuning. > > > > > > During the Fine Tuning: THWUNK !! I couldn't see anything, so I > > played > > > a chromatic scale. It climbed nicely until I passed the last > > strut, and > > > dropped a fourth. Then I could see the crack, travelling toward > > the > > > Northeast, but holding near the edge of a circular sound hole. I > > QUICKLY > > > dropped tension on that section, and then dropped the rest of the > > piano. > > > > > > Fortunately this pinblock is only attached to the frame, and not > > to the > > > case, so I loosed everything, pulled out the frame with the block > > and > > > strings intact, and called a welder who assured me he could handle > > this. > > > > > > Re-painted, reinstalled, strings back in place, tension up to > > A-440 and > > > holding. Last Friday before bed I played a chromatic scale > > again, and > > > it wasn't chromatic. . . . . . So I dropped the tension on the > > last > > > section and went to bed. > > > > > > There's more to welding cast iron then I knew. My welder did not > > heat > > > the plate, nor cool it slowly, as I hear is necessary. And I've > > heard > > > from a far more skilled fellow, that this kind of welding is very > > much an > > > art. > > > > > > Question: What if I had a steel plate created, and with PC-7 > > between it > > > and the underside of the frame to give it strong frictional > > contact, > > > drilled, tapped and bolted this plate in place below the cracked > > area. > > > It would be out of sight, and providing considerable strength for > > that > > > area. Would this be sufficient to bear the tension and give us > > our whole > > > piano back? > > > > > > Roger C. Hayden, RPT > > > Clarks Summit, PA > > > ________________________________________________________________ > > > > Roger, > > I've included a link to a site which promotes an intriguing and > > apparently > > extremely successful > > variety of cast iron repair. > > Haven't talked to them, but I understand that they have done piano > > plates and > > consider their procedure highly appropriate. > > It might be worthwhile to check with them, regardless of what you > > ultimately > > do. > > Good luck! > > > > Greg Granoff > > > > Here's the address: http://www.locknstitch.com/ > > > > ________________________________________________________________ > YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! > Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! > Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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