Roger, It does make sense and I'll add it to my arsenal Thanks !! Greg jolly roger wrote: > Hi Greg, > Usually glueing one strip of veneer to the top of the rail in > the dag contact areas, does the trick. Just sand to fit to the dag. ( I > prefer maple veneer.) > Some pianos that have dag screws that have a worn a "pothole" on the frame, > I fill with epoxy and sand flush. > The unicorda pedal can some times cause the action to skew, so, some > special attention to the pedal arm to frame fit, and the condition of what > ever Clamp and guide system that is in the cheek blocks. All this before > seriously starting to bed the rails. > Raise all glide bolts. > Bed the rear rail first. > Front rail second. > Then the balance rail. > If there is "pot holes" where the BR glides, contact the bed I fill them, > and block sand them flush. > There can be perfect bedding when the unicorda is off, but the frame lifts > the action as the glides slide up the side of the holes, when the pedal is > engaged. This can affect the after touch, as well as cause some frame noise. > Sorry about the term "pot hole" but it seems to fit. Um!!!! "keybed > potholes" New term for the lexicon. > Some notes from a frame bedding fanatic. I hope it makes some kind of sense. > Roger > > At 01:15 AM 2/6/01 -0500, you wrote: > >Newton and List, > > Why not shim the dag? Or make new ones to hold the keybed down? By > shimming > >the keyframe aren't you changing alot of other things unnecessarily? > > > >Greg Newell > > > >Newton Hunt wrote: > > > >> I scratched my head on this one for a while. Finally I removed the > >> stack and key and put the keyframe in with blocks in place. I then > >> fitted bits and pieces of veneer between the keyframe and keybed until > >> I got a nice fit. These where glued in place one at a time then fine > >> fitted when dry. I then lubricated the shim stock to help ease > >> shifting. > >> > >> If you find there is considerable movement between keybed and dags > >> then I would go to the hardware store and get some carpenters wedges > >> or shim stock, precut. I would insert a shim under the keyframe at a > >> dag and make sure the frame moves freely but the movement is gone. DO > >> this at each dag and then follow standard cleanup and make nice > >> procedures. Removing the return spring can be of help here. > >> > >> Then rebed as usual and wait and see. > >> > >> Newton > >> > >> Wilsons wrote: > >> > > >> > OK, Newton, I'll bite. I care for an S&S D for our symphony, and the > >> > regulation changes. How did you shim the back rail? Take it off & > insert? > >> > > >> > Wally Wilson, RPT > > > >-- > >Greg Newell > >Greg's Piano Forté > >19270 Harlon Ave. > >Lakewood, Ohio 44107 > >216-226-3791 > >mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net > > -- Greg Newell Greg's Piano Forté 19270 Harlon Ave. Lakewood, Ohio 44107 216-226-3791 mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
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