Fred, This is a very valuable post you have written. Thank you. Ed Sutton ----- Original Message ----- From: <fssturm@unm.edu> To: "College and University Technicians" <caut@ptg.org> Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 8:01 PM Subject: Re: key bushings > Wim, > I don't want to appear to "pile on," but I do want to quibble with you about the > notion that they are "only" the practice room grands you were contemplating > putting plastic bushings in. Practice room grands are #3 on my priority list, right > behind concert instruments and piano faculty studios. They are where piano > students try to learn to play with nuance and artistry, and need to be in top > shape all the time, within the limits of available time and resources. And piano > students are my main reason to be working in the music department. > With respect to the practical issue of keeping up with key bushing, I think > beginning with a top quality job is the only way to go - beautifully sized bushings > of top quality felt lubed with teflon powder, on beautifully polished pins lubed > with ProLube. > To get more life from a new set of bushings, try steam sizing them. Put the > keys in key clamps (Spurlock), steam the bushings with travel iron until they > swell (but don't actually unglue), follow with a key easing iron with precision > cauls (Pianotek has a new set of parallel sided cauls for your 40 watt iron, with > separate sizes for balance and front rail a few thousandths apart. I'm not sure if > it's in the catalogue yet, but they had them in Chicago for $15 a set. Very nice > and precise). Polish the pins, lube them with a cloth that's impregnated with > ProLube, feeling each pin for any burrs or corrosion. Replace those! It takes far > less time to replace a pin than to replace the bushing it will eat up in a few > months at practice room rates. You should also inspect the bushings before > steaming to see if any are worn badly - it's obvious if they are the kind with white > centers, and pretty easy to see even if not. Then examine the corresponding pin > to see why. (If there's a lot of wear, steam sizing isn't worth the trouble. Just > rebush). > BTW, for anyone who doesn't know, the easy way to remove key pins is to use > a pair of "dikes" (the auto mechanic's term for diagonal cutting pliers) and a > piece of 1/4 - 3/8" dowel or square stock. Use the wood as a fulcrum, about 1/2" > away from the pin. Grab the pin with the tip of the dikes at the pin's bottom and > pry up about 3/16". Release and grab again at the bottom. Three pries and it's > out. Pound in the new one. Half a minute, max. No sweat, no cussing (compared > to pulling with pliers or vice grips). _Grab_ the pin with the dikes. Make a dimple > in each side. No slip that way. You're going to throw it away. > Steam sizing reverses compression of the felt pretty well. It does little for wear, > which is why polishing and lubing and replacing pins is so important. Scales > and glissandi cause rapid compression, which is why practice room bushings > become wobbly so fast. Often it's more compression than wear, especially if it > was a good job to begin with (see above). > There are those who advocate leather for longevity, and you can read about > that in the archives. Myself, I prefer a high quality felt job - wider range of > available thicknesses, easier to precision size. But we all have our preferences. > Regardless what material you use, the feel of a firm but free keyboard is the > goal - it makes an enormous difference to the pianist, whether or not he/she > knows where the difference lies. It's the "new" feel, and adds a sense of control. > The intense work required by practice room grands (in tandem with concert > and piano faculty pianos) is why the workload recommendation in the > Guidelines is so seemingly high. I remember you commenting you thought a full > time job caring for 70 pianos would be a walk in the park, when you first took the > job. It's keeping up with bushings, and hammers, and knuckles, and regulation, > and broken strings, and, and, and . . . - keeping those practice pianos almost as > good as a concert instrument all the time - that really defines what being a > CAUT is all about, IMO. And means a lot of hours, more than anyone in the retail > field could imagine. > All that said, thanks for asking about the plastic cauls. Keep questions and > ideas coming. It keeps us awake and alive. > Regards, > Fred Sturm > University of New Mexico > > Quoting Wimblees@aol.com: > > > It's always fun to go off on tangent on a questions. It adds some > > levity to > > the list. (Can I throw in my glue gun?) > > > > But besides just telling I should not use plastic bushings, I don't > > think any > > one told me why they should not be used. Remember, I want to put > > these on > > practice room grands, not the concert grand or the piano teacher's > > studio > > pianos. > > > > Be gentle > > > > Wim > > > _______________________________________________ > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >
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