Isaac- Just a light touch of the needles at the strike point, then gradually deeper to about 2mm at 1:30 on the front. About 5 stabs with the 3 needle tool to start, 10-12 stabs maximum. This is assuming the hammers are in good condition and have already been voiced. The change (if it works) is subtle: the attack zing! is reduced, color zing that is part of the sustained tone is still there. No loss of power, which I always hear when I mute the duplex. I think this is more a technique for changing the color response of the whole section than for repairing individual screaming notes. I haven't used it enough yet to know its triage potential; so far I've only used it on new hammers, Renner and Abel. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Isaac OLEG" <oleg-i@wanadoo.fr> To: "College and University Technicians" <caut@ptg.org> Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 3:33 AM Subject: RE: after ring > Hello, > > I've been made careful about needling the front side of the shoulders > less than the back, as on forte blow, the front side of the striking > zone and hammer is more solicited because of the flexing of the > shanks. > > Too much needling the front mean loosing power at forte level then. > > Do you mean that you install a softening zone only near the striking > zone (not deep) ? > > I noticed that on grand's voiced with more needling on the front near > the crown, it is not possible to have that crystal ringing quality in > the attack, the tone will stay matte always , even if power is > conserved. Of course if a lot of unwanted noises are present that > should be a better option that muting the capo , but I was told of the > use of little rubber wedges (a few mm tall) to dampen the extra noisy > strings, often because of surface problems in capo or hammer. > Some techs shim a little bushing red felt around the 3 strings, since > they can fix the problem more definitively. > On concert pianos I was told 3 rubber wedges are considered maximum, > after that reshape the strike and level strings. These little black > rubbers are hardly noticed when pushed almost under the capo. > > Best wishes to all, I was off for sometime. > > Regards. > > Isaac OLEG > > Entretien et réparation de pianos et pianos de concert. > > PianoTech > 17 rue de Choisy > 94400 VITRY sur SEINE > FRANCE > tel : 033 01 47 18 06 98 > fax : 033 01 47 18 06 90 > cell: 06 60 42 58 77 > > > -----Message d'origine----- > > De : caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]De > > la part de Ed > > Sutton > > Envoyé : lundi 13 janvier 2003 18:07 > > À : College and University Technicians > > Objet : Re: after ring > > > > > > Hi Roger, > > Here's the difference: Voicing the front side of > > the hammer dampens > > only the reflected wave going from the hammer back to the > > capo during the > > time of hammer contact. Once the hammer is off the string, > > the duplex > > operates freely. Presumably this gives better sustain than > > damping the > > duplex with glue or felt. You get the power and brightness > > from the hard > > back side of the hammer sending its wave toward the bridge, > > while damping > > some of the impact zing at the capo. At least that is the > > theory...;) It > > does make a difference somehow. > > It should also help with agraffe noise, though I > > haven't tried that > > yet. > > I got this from the Renner voicing instructuions, > > and also from Bill > > Clayton who learned it from Fred Drasche. > > My approach is pretty finicky: I draw a line across the > > hammers through the > > strike point, then start with shallow needling at the line, > > getting deeper > > toward the shoulder. 5 pokes with a 3 needle tool is > > enough to make a > > change. > > Ed S. > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Roger Jolly" <roger.j@sasktel.net> > > To: "College and University Technicians" <caut@ptg.org> > > Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 11:11 AM > > Subject: Re: after ring > > > > > > > At 05:30 PM 1/9/2003 -0500, you wrote: > > > >This is a good approach. > > > >Before reshaping the capo, try needling the front side > > of the hammers > > only. > > > >This will often reduce front duplex noise with very > > little loss of power. > > > >EdS > > > > > > Hi Ed, > > > A dab of white glue applied to the wire of > > the forward > > > terminating, will greatly reduce that noise by de tuning > > the duplex. > > > Just another emergency fix. > > > Regards Roger > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > _______________________________________________ > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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