after ring

Ed Sutton ed440@mindspring.com
Wed, 15 Jan 2003 07:52:31 -0500


Isaac-
    Just a light touch of the needles at the strike point, then gradually
deeper to about 2mm at 1:30 on the front.  About 5 stabs with the 3 needle
tool to start, 10-12 stabs maximum.    This is assuming the hammers are in
good condition and have already been voiced.
    The change (if it works) is subtle: the attack zing! is reduced, color
zing that is part of the sustained tone is still there. No loss of power,
which I always hear when I mute the duplex.
    I think this is more a technique for changing the color response of the
whole section than for repairing individual screaming notes.  I haven't used
it enough yet to know its triage potential; so far I've only used it on new
hammers, Renner and Abel.
    Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Isaac OLEG" <oleg-i@wanadoo.fr>
To: "College and University Technicians" <caut@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 3:33 AM
Subject: RE: after ring


> Hello,
>
> I've been made careful about needling the front side of the shoulders
> less than the back, as on forte blow, the front side of the striking
> zone and hammer is more solicited because of the flexing of the
> shanks.
>
> Too much needling the front mean loosing power at forte level then.
>
> Do you mean that you install a softening zone only near the striking
> zone (not deep) ?
>
> I noticed that on grand's voiced with more needling on the front near
> the crown, it is not possible to have that crystal ringing quality in
> the attack, the tone will stay matte always , even if power is
> conserved. Of course if a lot of unwanted noises are present that
> should be a better option that muting the capo , but I was told of the
> use of little rubber wedges (a few mm tall) to dampen the extra noisy
> strings, often because of surface problems in capo or hammer.
> Some techs shim a little bushing red felt around the 3 strings, since
> they can fix the problem more definitively.
> On concert pianos I was told 3 rubber wedges are considered maximum,
> after that reshape the strike and level strings. These little black
> rubbers are hardly noticed when pushed almost under the capo.
>
> Best wishes to all, I was off for sometime.
>
> Regards.
>
> Isaac OLEG
>
> Entretien et réparation de pianos et pianos de concert.
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>
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]De
> > la part de Ed
> > Sutton
> > Envoyé : lundi 13 janvier 2003 18:07
> > À : College and University Technicians
> > Objet : Re: after ring
> >
> >
> > Hi Roger,
> >         Here's the difference: Voicing the front side of
> > the hammer dampens
> > only the reflected wave going from the hammer back to the
> > capo during the
> > time of hammer contact.  Once the hammer is off the string,
> > the duplex
> > operates freely.  Presumably this gives better sustain than
> > damping the
> > duplex with glue or felt.  You get the power and brightness
> > from the hard
> > back side of the hammer sending its wave toward the bridge,
> > while damping
> > some of the impact zing at the capo.  At least that is the
> > theory...;)   It
> > does make a difference somehow.
> >         It should also help with agraffe noise, though I
> > haven't tried that
> > yet.
> >         I got this from the Renner voicing instructuions,
> > and also from Bill
> > Clayton who learned it from Fred Drasche.
> > My approach is pretty finicky: I draw a line across the
> > hammers through the
> > strike point, then start with shallow needling at the line,
> > getting deeper
> > toward the shoulder.  5 pokes with a 3 needle tool is
> > enough to make a
> > change.
> >         Ed S.
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Roger Jolly" <roger.j@sasktel.net>
> > To: "College and University Technicians" <caut@ptg.org>
> > Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 11:11 AM
> > Subject: Re: after ring
> >
> >
> > > At 05:30 PM 1/9/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> > > >This is a good approach.
> > > >Before reshaping the capo, try needling the front side
> > of the hammers
> > only.
> > > >This will often reduce front duplex noise with very
> > little loss of power.
> > > >EdS
> > >
> > > Hi Ed,
> > >              A dab of white glue applied to the wire of
> > the forward
> > > terminating, will greatly reduce that noise by de tuning
> > the duplex.
> > > Just another emergency fix.
> > > Regards Roger
> > >
> > >
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