damper lever ht.

[A440A@aol.com]

Jon writes:
<< Rather than drilling a new hole for the pivot pin, I'd prefer to cut off 
the bottom of the block, plug and redrill the screw hole in the belly rail. 
There is no need to have the block 'fitted' to the cavity.>>

  Wow,  I must be missing something here.  My preference for drilling a new 
hole in the pivot block, slightly lower than the existing, one was based on 
several reasons.   
    The first is ease of execution, it is very easy to drill a new hole in 
both of the blocks, it is somewhat more involved to cut off blocks, plug and 
then drill the belly rail, then drill pilot holes while being careful not to lose 
your indexing, etc.   Also, plugging and redrilling the belly rail is going 
to be difficult on the bass end, no?
    Second is that by just drilling a new hole in the block, everything is 
easily reversed if it doesn't, for some reason, address the problem.  Simply 
move the tray back to the original hole.  Can't do that with the cutdown blocks.  
 
    Third is that I think there is a reason for a fitted block in that 
cavity.  Newer model Steinways have the block cut short. I assume this for ease of 
assembly.  I have noticed on 4 out of our 6 new Steinways, the treble damper 
tray block moves around with the seasons.  In the winter it is loose enough to 
twist sideways, causing multiple dampers to hang up when the tray shifts 
sideways.   If there were two screws in the block, that wouldn't be a problem, but 
there is only one.  The older pianos all had tightly fitted blocks and even if 
the screw was somewhat loose, the block was trapped in the upright position 
and didn't allow the tray to migrate sideways.  True, it probably called for 
more expertise to construct, but I think the results were more durable.  
    So, I would still go for the easy, reversible, way, first.   
 regards,
Ed Foote