My small opinion, I agree totally about settling the tuning pin, you need to flex it a little (a wiggle?) before you leave the note even after test blows. But, my feeling about these, and this is just a feeling, is that the problem is not too much friction but too little seperation between the tuning pin side and the speaking length. We all now how too much agraffe friction feels, you pull and pull and nothing happens until suddenly you are too far past it. This can be terrible if the pins are loose. In the Steinways case even putting on the tuning hammer can cause an alarming wow in the pitch. I have an 1880 vertical, and have restored a number of similar ones, where even leaning on the tuning pin will not produce such a drastic effect. These have no plate bushings and a massive capo bar as well and no flex problems. So, IMHO, I'm not convinced that pin bushings and less friction will really solve the problem. ----Dave ----------------------------- Dave Doremus RPT New Orleans algiers_piano@bellsouth.net ------------------------------ > > >My two cents worth...I have always found that pulling the string up >from the flat side and then pounding the crud out of it helps (it >seems to settle "up"). Settling down from the sharp side is less >effective. Also, if you push the tuning lever away from the plate >going flat, and toward the plate going sharp, that seems to work. >This is the reverse of what I intuitively do on most pianos. I agree >with what Susan says in the snip below, and also that, once I get >the sucker in tune, it really stays there. Glad that S&S has made >improvements, though. > >Mary Smith >UT-Austin > >> >>I must say, though, that once I get one really in tune, it has an >>interesting sound and is fun to play. That is, if I have the strength of >>mind to forget how it was to tune, so I feel like playing it. >> > >-- >_______________________________________________ >caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives --
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