mini belts

Joe And Penny Goss imatunr@srvinet.com
Wed, 26 May 2004 07:42:38 -0600


Hi Lance,
You can work on as many as you want, but for the initial removal of felt of
badly worn hammers, a two inch strip is as wide as I care to go, as this
results in  too much friction when you pull and push the strip,  Excessive
pressure causes  the hammers to tilt to the side resulting in misshaping the
hammers and a lot of extra work fitting the hammer to the string.
Also on those top 15 hammers one can use a finer grit than the 60, say 120,
and get a better shape to those upper hammers.
For those of you still <G> reading, the 50-60-80-120-240 cloth is very stiff
to stiff, and needs to be rolled on a pencil to allow the cloth to form a
curve that will match the hammers.
Joe Goss RPT
imatunr@srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "llafargue" <llafargue@charter.net>
To: "'College and University Technicians'" <caut@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2004 6:42 AM
Subject: RE: mini belts


> Those look great, but the >point< of the ping pong paddle is that you
> can do 6-10 hammers at a time in the upper tenor and treble (where there
> is little or no angle) and get the biggest done fast while also having
> perfect uniformity.  Then refine with narrower tools.
>
> Lance Lafargue, RPT
> LAFARGUE PIANOS
> New Orleans Chapter, PTG
> 985.72P.IANO
> llafargue@charter.net
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of
> Joe And Penny Goss
> Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 10:07 AM
> To: College and University Technicians
> Subject: Re: mini belts
>
> Hi Lance,
> Or visit my site ?<G>
> Joe Goss
> imatunr@srvinet.com
> www.mothergoosetools.com
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "llafargue" <llafargue@charter.net>
> To: "'College and University Technicians'" <caut@ptg.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 6:28 AM
> Subject: RE: mini belts
>
>
> > Great Ron.  If anyone wants to go cheaper, they can cut a thin piece
> of
> > paneling or plywood, then saw a dowel in half length ways and glue it
> > onto the sides of the handle to make it easier to grip. I sawed off
> the
> > end of the ping pong paddle to make it smaller and I use very heavy
> grit
> > on one side like maybe 60 grit (?) for the rough work, then 120 or so
> on
> > the other side, then I use strips of 200, etc to smooth out before a
> > final quick ironing.  The use for rough work is great especially for
> the
> > Steinway facets on each side like the / and \ at 10 and 2 o'clock
> where
> > lots of material has to be taken off at times.
> >
> > Lance Lafargue, RPT
> > LAFARGUE PIANOS
> > New Orleans Chapter, PTG
> > 985.72P.IANO
> > llafargue@charter.net
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of
> > Ron Koval
> > Sent: Monday, May 24, 2004 1:44 PM
> > To: caut@ptg.org
> > Subject: mini belts
> >
> > Lance,
> >
> > Thanks for posting this.  I'd seen over the years all sorts of sanding
>
> > paddles, but never thought of using a ping pong paddle.  I had an old
> > one in
> > the basement, and gave it a try.... WOW!  It helped me to square off
> the
> >
> > sides and top to make it more rectangular, and shorten the handle, but
> > for
> > the rough work, it really speeds things up.  And less potentially
> > damaging
> > than the Dremel sanding barrel.
> >
> > Ron Koval
> > Chicagoland
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Wim, just my experience.  I have one, but, I now slip wood under the
> > shanks of upright or block up tails on grands and use a ping pong
> paddle
> > to do the two side facets or rough initial stuff with about 40-60
> grit,
> > then refine with strips.  This actually faster for me.  I just never
> > went back to the belt.
> >
> > Lance Lafargue, RPT
> > LAFARGUE PIANOS
> > New Orleans Chapter, PTG
> > 985.72P.IANO
> > llafargue@charter.net
> >
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