Excellent advice from Fred, just a little addition.... On 4/17/05, Fred Sturm said: > > Another useful ³easing² tool is the correct sized drill bit >(preferably selected from a set of 1 60 numbered bits, but you >might find the right size in metric or SAE) - it needs to be just a >couple thousandths larger than the pin. Use it in a pin vise, >turning it while angling it back and forth within the mortise - >carefully. This is my favorite method but I would use the blunt end of the bit, rather than the cutting end. You can tighten the top by gluing in small pieces of card stock or very thin veneer. If you use a file you can grind the tip down to match the shape of the mortise. > Bottom line: mortises must fit the pins very closely, but be >free. Very troublesome design. Use care when easing. Keys should >have minimum lead in them for return (leads are almost always on the >back side), and the key should just float to rest position. Thatıs >the ideal you may find you have ³over-leaded² keys. I often use a 2 gram weight to check the return, if the key will just lift it you know you have solid performance. Keys are generally carved in front to lighten and I use sinker weights rather than big piano leads. -- ----Dave ----------------------------- Dave Doremus, RPT New Orleans ------------------------------
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