At 09:15 AM 12/18/2005 -0800, you wrote: >I've had poor success with CA, using thin stuff, too. Did a Baldwin M by >turning it over and using the glue from the bottom. Tried a deligint >block and that was just hopeless. Maybe it's the type of piano..... Got >to make a decision in two hours... >Any more clues? Going, going,................................. >thanks >les With CA, less is more (pardon the pun), and its best feature is the power to wick into narrow cracks. The place you want it is at the top of the pin, where flagpoling has widened the hole. You don't want it underneath, where it keeps the pin from turning deeper into the block as you pull up the string, and where the hole will already be the tightest. My thinking is that if the pin is loose enough that it doesn't hold, it's loose enough for the CA to wick down to where it is needed, from the spot where the pin disappears into the block or plate bushing. Also, a second small application of CA after the first small application of CA may have better effects, since the first (small) application of CA probably wicked away from the pin, but also sealed the cracks as it hardened, so that the second (small) application of CA is more likely to stay next to the pin, where it is needed. A BIG application of CA just goes all over the place, is slower to set up, and makes way too many toxic fumes. CA is not Garfields, and shouldn't be used anything like Garfields. (Oh, my opinion is SO HUMBLE!) If you decide to go the traditional route with the glycerin and alcohol, be sure you don't go out of your way to find "good, old-fashioned" real methanol. It is highly toxic. Read the denatured alcohol can carefully, and use plenty of ventilation, no matter what type of treatment you decide on.
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