[CAUT] Baldwin action modifications

[Mark Cramer]

Thanks Eric,

this is excellent information, and I really appreciate it.

I've singled out the 63' L in question for a capo-hardening experiment, but
I'll share action-spread results when we get to that point.

again thanks!

Mark Cramer,
Brandon University

-----Original Message-----
From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]On Behalf Of
Wolfley, Eric (wolfleel)
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 12:40 AM
To: College and University Technicians
Subject: [CAUT] Baldwin action modifications


Mark,

We have a lot of Baldwins here at the Conservatory from all eras. As a
matter of fact, there are probably more Baldwins here than anywhere else due
to the relationship the company had with the school over the years. Many
have odd parts dimensions because they have been muddled with over the years
and many have come from the factory with curious configurations due I think
to manufacturing problems caused by a case of bad "institutional memory".
(This is just my theory). The end result though, is that these actions work
quite well when set up correctly and the pianos are for the most part quite
good. As best I can tell from sources I've asked (old Baldwin people) the
correct measurement from the center pin to the center of the hammer molding
is supposed to be 5 1/8". If anyone knows otherwise please let me know. Some
of the pianos here had sharps that were hitting the fallboard because the
action had to be pushed in so far to get the strike point right.

Check both extreme hammers...sometimes they measure 4 7/8" at one end and 5"
at the other. By changing to 5 1/8" you are then able to move the stack 1/8"
towards the keyboard and retain the correct strikepoint. You'll need new
S&F's to do this. You need to chisel 1/8" off of the bass and treble
shoes...do it precisely and it will be good for accurate positioning when
drilling new holes for the action brackets. Plug all the old bracket screw
holes with side-grained maple plugs. After you reposition the stack you can
look at the capstan placement. Most of these Baldwins have around a .58 key
ratio. By moving the capstan line towards the balance rail you can improve
this to about .52 without having to change the wipp heels and compliance
with the magic line is good. By doing all this you usually end up with an
action ratio of 5.5 or so, keydip .400", blow 1 3/4", and you can usually
reduce the frontweights by a significant amount. You don't have to change
the backchecks because of the longer shanks because you're moving the stack
the same amount. I've done these adaptations as a part of a Stanwood
Precision Touch Design to a number of pianos in the practice rooms here and
so far it's been a win-win situation. The students really like these
actions.

By the way, I drive right by the old Baldwin factory every day on my way to
drop off and pick up my son from his day-camp. It's a beautiful building
which has been restored and is now part of an office complex less than half
a mile from downtown Cincinnati. It's a shame the company couldn't have
survived and preserved its rich heritage.

Eric

Eric Wolfley, RPT
Supervising Piano Technician
College-Conservatory of Music
University of Cincinnati


BTW Eric, I recall you mentioned hanging hammers on several Baldwin L's at a
non-standard length (to center-pin).

You've got my curiousity. Could you relate the how and why?

(I have a 63'L in the shop with a set of Encore shanks ready to on)

thanks,

Mark Cramer,
Brandon University

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