[CAUT] M&H pressure lube

[Danny L Tassin]

Lance,  I'd be real careful in using any kind of lubricate, other than 
graffit in "specific" areas when stringing a piano (i.e: new strings, tuning 
pins, bridge pins, etc.) in a rebuild situation.   However, I have hear of 
and seen some techs use just a faction of a drop of Protech on areas where 
the string crosses the V-bar, pressure bar, etc.  ( I'd use a piece of piano 
wire "dipped" in the Protect, then lightly touching the area to tranfer the 
lube to the point where you want it.)  Go real easy here. 

Another "trick" you can try, and THIS works when there are slightly rusty 
strings involved, in doing a pitch raise when you don't want to break 
strings.  Before you start the tuning, take a "tuning pin" setter and a 
hammer and give each and every tuning pin one good "whack" (not trying to 
drive it deeper) and you'll find that this will help "lossen" up some 
"sticky" strings to points of contact where they don't want to move easily 
across the friction points.   Believe it or not, this really does work.  
It's been proven. 

But, now ...
On the other hand,  I would try improving your hammer usage and blow 
technique to the point where you set the "bottom of the pin" to where you 
think it should be, do a 2-3 (one right after the other = quickly) test 
blows, and using the hammer in a parallel-to-the-strings configuation 
(handle pointing toward the "round" of the piano tail), lightly in a see-saw 
motion (lightly, I said) move the string to pitch (or if a unison, to the 
middle string) and give it several more hard test blows to "set" the sting 
all up and down, from tuning pin to hitching pin.  IF you hold the string 
pressure in the hammer while hitting your test blows, you'll find the string 
will "stay" and the pitch will not move. 

I have found that a very light "tapping" of the hammer when setting the 
string right at the same instant you test-blow the key, will put a tremedous 
"force" (so to speak) through the  whole string at that instant the hammer 
hits the sting, causing it to adjust, or move - if you will - , the whole 
lenght of the string.   It literally will equal the tention thru the whole 
lenght of the string, setting it to a sability that will amaze you.  I mean, 
once you have it "set" using this method,  it will NOT move, I don't care 
how hard or how many times you pound on the key.   It literally stabalizes 
the whole string. 

Now, be sure to do this first on the middle string ( one side or the other 
when tuning the Tenor-single wound strings) to make sure that string is set 
solid and will not move no matter what.   If aural tuning, then, as you pull 
your strip mute(s), tune the left string (L) to the middle first, then with 
the  SHIFT pedal down (yes, we are moving the hammer over to the right), 
tune the Right (R) string to the middle string, but in this case don't use 
quite the force setting the unions as the middle string, but do use enough 
force, and with the "tapping" force just as the hammer BLOW hits the string, 
to "equalize" the string from hitch-pin to tuning-pin. 

This is much more fun when using an ETD.  It's like a video game, and I'm 
trying to stop the lights to win a $1000 dollars on the new game show,
" Please The Customer " !! 

F.Y.I. =  WIM,  this is what I was talking about in use for your string 
stabilzation method for concert tunings.   It works !!!   It really does.
Like I said, Wim, we'll go over this at K.C. when i see you. 

This is the method we use in tuning all the pianos at this institution.  The 
faculty has come to enjoy our tunings because they don't have to worry about 
a string, or unison, going out when playing hard, pounding pieces.
However, I do agree with thoughs of you who have said that after a point, 
some pieces become "less"  musical from all the heavy playing.  But, then 
again,  I call it "job security."  If the pianos never went out of tune, 
then I'd be out of a job,  wouldn't we all ??   Ha !  **grins-grins.** 

In closeing, Lance,  I'd use "any" lube as a last resort.  Try the tuning 
method I just describe.  (Free of charge).   You "might" find that ole BB 
come alive and start "paying attention to ya !! " 

I hope this helps, Lance (& all of you).   If not, well, I could have been 
tuning.  (which I'm off to do.)  I just had to help my good ole Lousiana
friend. 

My best to all. 

Dan Tassin, RPT
Piano Technician
Michigan State Univ.
E.Lansing, MI.
tassin@MSU.edu 

" Life is a bowl of cherrys, only if you live in the jar."
                                                            Annon. 

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llafargue writes: 

> I have a few customers with M&H BB's and I find them relatively
> difficult to tune because of the steep angle of the strings at
> capo/duplex areas.  They're just not fun and I don't think a couple of
> them stay in tune as well as they should.  Do any of you lube this area
> with good affect and if so, what do you use?  Thanks.
>  
> Lance Lafargue, RPT
> LAFARGUE PIANOS
> New Orleans Chapter, PTG
> 985.72P.IANO
> llafargue@charter.net
> www.lafarguepianos.com
>  
>