Hi, Alan, If memory serves, that set of buildings is also hermetically sealed. So, how the engineers have the air-exchange set up will make a huge difference...as, of course, will being located in what might be called a semi-arid area. Best. Horace At 09:31 AM 2/21/2006, you wrote: >I work at a school of music in an area that has relative humidity in >the teens for most of the academic year. After completing a job with >hide glue just before a vacation, on a whim, I poured some into a >small paper cup and left it on my desk. A week later, the sides of >the cup had been sucked in (glue stuck to the paper, water >evaporated from glue). No big surprise there. What was interesting >was that up to NINE MONTHS later I still heard the glue cracking as >it (apparently) continued to shrink! (We also have problems with >failed glue joints on hammer heads here, but not just from our own >hide glue operations....whatever Yamaha uses has also failed on >numerous occasions in this environment.) > >Guess it's time to try Titebond Trim and Molding glue. > >Alan Eder > >-----Original Message----- >From: Wolfley, Eric (wolfleel) <WOLFLEEL@UCMAIL.UC.EDU> >To: College and University Technicians <caut@ptg.org> >Sent: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 09:37:09 -0500 >Subject: RE: [CAUT] Glue For Hammers > >I used hot hide glue for years for its purported acoustic qualities. > After doing institutional work for a few years where I could observe the >results of my well-intended labors I noticed a rather startling failure >rate, especially on hammers with walnut or mahogany moldings. I would >guess that approximately 10% would come loose in a year or two. I don't > know if this is due to the brutal humidity conditions or to high use but > I switched to Titebond and the problem went away. I recently began using >Titebond Trim and Molding Glue and find it to be superior to any other. >It dries nearly as hard as the hide glue, is thick enough to form nice > glue collars without dripping all over everything and I have yet to find >a loose hammer head. Pianotek carries it even though it's not in their >catalog yet. > >Eric > >Eric Wolfley, RPT >Head Piano Technician >Cincinnati College-Conservatory of Music >University of Cincinnati >-----Original Message----- >From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of >Tim Coates >Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:09 AM >To: College and University Technicians >Subject: Re: [CAUT] Glue For Hammers > >Whatever you are comfortable with. Some prefer hide and some the >tite-bond. There is no right or wrong answer as many try to make it. >I prefer hide for hammers, but I can understand why others like >tite-bond. > > > >Tim Coates > >On Feb 21, 2006, at 7:50 AM, Chris Solliday wrote: > > > Tite-Bond Trim and Molding Glue > > Chris Solliday > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "central" <jorge1ml@mail.cmich.edu> > > To: "College and University Technicians" <caut@ptg.org> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 8:18 AM > > Subject: [CAUT] Glue For Hammers > > > > > >> Hello All, > >> What do you think is the best overall glue for hanging hammers? > >> -Mike Jorgensen > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > >> > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > >_______________________________________________ >caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >_______________________________________________ >caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > >_______________________________________________ >caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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